For years (more than 400) Plymouth has been known as the permanent home of the Pilgrims, and, along with this recognition, a tourist industry bloomed. That Plymouth was known for saltwater taffy, mediocre food, and seasonal establishments. Although this still exists, today’s Plymouth presents much more. This weekend in Plymouth is mainly accessible on foot. Downtown Plymouth is entirely walkable with its main streets being Court and Water Street. Other places in town (Manomet, Chiltonville, Myles Standish State Forest, Ellisville, and Cordage Park) need to be accessed via car.
Let’s Talk History
The main focal of Plymouth’s tourism is still its history and deservedly so. It is the site of the first permanent European settlement in the New World. The historic highlights of our weekend in Plymouth include Plimoth Patuxet which welcomes visitors to the year 1624 to view the daily life of the English settlers. On-site is a blacksmith shop, farm animals, and a fort. At this living history museum, if you try talking to the actors about modern technology, they will have no idea what you are referring to. Adjacent to the Pilgrim settlement is the Wampanoag Homesite. The Wampanoag may be working on traditional crafts and preparing meals. Even children may be playing games. On Thursdays, you can also find the Plymouth Farmers Market and a cinema showing first-run, often independent, films in the evenings.
Plymouth Rocks!
Plymouth is also home to Plymouth Rock. Although ensconced in an elaborate stone portico, the rock is literally a boulder with the year 1620 stamped upon it, but since it’s right downtown, you probably should see it, just don’t expect anything flashy. Nearby, as part of Pilgrim Memorial State Park is the Mayflower II. This replica of the ship the Pilgrims sailed on can be toured, with actors aboard who may discuss certain aspects of the boat and who are there to answer your questions. The boat, along with the Plimoth Grist Mill, is owned by Plimoth Patuxet, and a combination ticket is available to purchase.
The grist mill is a short, pretty walk through Brewster Gardens alongside the Town Brook, the fresh water that the Pilgrims found which helped them decide on Plymouth as the permanent settlement. The grist mill is small, but worth a peek inside. It also has a gift shop and pub, Lucioso’s, on-site. The operating water wheel is neat and the grounds are well-manicured. A further walk past the grist mill on the Town Brook will eventually lead to Billington Sea, named for Pilgrim teenager Francis Billington who purportedly spotted what he thought to be a sea. It’s actually a large pond that offers kayak rentals. The Town Brook, from the harbor to Billington Sea is also home to a very active Herring Run every year in late April to early May. Watch the fish climb the ladder to get through the grist mill dam and look for the volunteers who count the fish as they shoot out of the fish ladder.
Pilgrim Hall Museum
On Court Street is the Pilgrim Hall Museum which features artifacts from the Pilgrims as well as a rotating exhibit. The museum is on two floors and is manageable to explore in an hour. The collection includes Governor Bradford’s chair, John Carver’s sword, paintings, and other possessions of the Pilgrims. Tucked out of the way, but still within walking distance to downtown is the National Monument to the Forefathers on Allerton Street. It’s said to be the largest granite statue in the country.
The figure of Faith stands tall, pointing her finger to the sky, flanked by seated figures of Education, Law, Liberty, and Morality, representing the ideals of the forefathers and of America. Its sheer size is quite impressive; it can be walked or driven around and is free. To see the final resting place of some of the Pilgrims, make sure to visit Burial Hill. Even if you’re not interested in the Pilgrims, but are looking for the best view in town, a hike up to the top of the cemetery is a must. The Ghost and Gravestones and Dead of Night Ghost Tours also bring visitors up here along with the Trask Museum and the Court House Museum for tales of Plymouth’s “other side.”
Stop for a Drink
In addition to history, Plymouth has its share of craft libations. The most well-known is Mayflower Brewery, located on Resnick Road in the Plymouth Industrial Park. Mayflower simply does beer well. Although in recent years they have branched into some more adventurous styles, Mayflower’s stalwarts include their IPA, the New World, a New England-style IPA, and Porter. Their branding ties into local history. Mayflower’s tap room is nicely arranged, with a large bar, tables to sit at, a dartboard, and often a food truck on certain days.
Also in town is Independent Fermentations, located in the Camelot Drive Industrial park. “Indie Ferm” is a smaller batch brewery with creative offerings like their honey tripel, bier de garten and gratzer. The brewery itself has a warm, welcoming vibe, where locals fill their growlers, get a pint or a tasting, and chat with owners Paul and Rose. A pizza truck is available on some days. Look for their themed events. Plymouth is also home to a branch of the highly successful Craft Beer Cellar chain, which stocks a rotating selection of the finest local and away craft beers. In addition to these two, Plymouth is also home to Second Wind Brewing Company, High Limb Cider, Llamanama Beer Labs and soon, Sour Not Sorry.
Wine and Spirits
In addition to beer, Plymouth also has its own purveyors of wine and the hard stuff. On the wine front, the beloved Plymouth Bay Winery has been “having to put up with this view” (of the gorgeous ocean beyond) for over twenty years, says owner Michael Carr during a tasting. They specialize in fruit wines and are very well known for their take on the local fruit specialty, the cranberry. Popular wines are the Cranberry Bay (a pucker) and the Cranberry Blush (a kiss). Others include the Drydock White, Blueberry Bay, and the Widow’s Walk. They also have a delectable selection of jams and marinades. The winery is located on Water Street.
In addition to Plymouth Bay is the 1620 Winery and Wine bar. The wine bar is also located on Water Street, in the Village Landing shopping destination. The Village Landing’s shops are set up like an idyllic seaside town. The wine bar features an inside and outside where visitors can enjoy a glass or a tasting. The outside often is accompanied by live music and the warmth of a fire pit. The 1620 wine is available at both locations. The wine runs the gamut from red, white, rose, and fruit. The actual winery, which also provides tastings, can be found at Cordage Park, an old factory that at one time was the largest rope and twine manufacturer in the world, and even lent its name to Chrysler’s new auto, the Plymouth.
Cordage Park
Plymouth binder twine was used in the production of the Plymouth, a car designed to appeal to the working man. Plymouth’s craft liquor movement is rounded out by Dirty Water Distillery, also in Cordage Park. Dirty Water is always concocting new taste treats, but they are best known for Velnias which is a Krupnikas, or a Lithuanian Honey Liqueur. It’s extremely tasty, which can be deceiving for something so potent. It’s the right amount of sweetness and cinnamon. They feature a line of vodkas, from horseradish to bacon, clementine to coffee. They also distill rum, whiskey, and gin.
Back to Nature
Next to its history, Plymouth is full of natural beauty with beaches, ponds, natural areas, state parks, and walking paths galore. Plymouth’s most accentuated natural features are Long Beach and Saquish. Peering out into the harbor from anywhere on the downtown waterfront, notice two tracts of land jutting out from the mainland on either side. The left is Saquish (a sandy peninsula off of Duxbury Beach, not open to the public).
On the right is Long Beach. Long Beach is Plymouth’s primary beach. Although residents with an appropriate sticker can drive out to the end of the three-mile sandy spit, visitors can pay to spend the day at the first parking lot closest to the road. For those willing to walk, you may walk along the beach from the day parking, three miles or so to the end. The main parking area beach is slightly rocky, but overall has a decent amount of fresh sand, especially the farther you go, but farther out past this lot the beach is beautiful (and typically not very crowded, it’s definitely worth the walk.) If you’re hungry for a lobster roll or burger, the beach has its own food shack, Sandy’s.
To the Beach
White Horse Beach is a gorgeous sandy stretch in the Manomet section of town. Parking is tricky though, even for residents. Manomet is hopping in the summer, as the rentals and cottages are brimming with tourists. Drive to the end of Manomet Point Road, past the Lobster Pound (open seasonally) for a sweeping view of the Manomet cliffs. In May, bring binoculars to spot a breaching whale or a water spout rising from the ocean.
Earlier in the spring, scour the rocks below for basking seals. Ellisville Harbor State Park is farther down Route 3A past Manomet. The entrance looks like a nondescript turnaround. Looks can be deceiving as a walk on the trails of this state park afford pretty views of the natural surroundings and estuary land. The trail ends at a rocky beach at Ellisville Harbor. Plymouth is one of the few towns left in Massachusetts that can boast free beaches.
Closer to Plymouth Center
In addition to Ellisville, back in town, Nelson Park’s beach is as inviting as some towns’ primary swimming areas are. Very crowded in the summer due to the free admission, the playground and the splash pad are full of screaming children. The beach itself is a picturesque setting on Plymouth Bay with minimal waves. The park is located on Nelson Road, right off Water Street. Nelson Park is also the start (or the end) of the two-mile rail trail that connects Nelson Park and the waterfront to the Cordage Park area in North Plymouth. Along the route are inlets to explore the seaside and the Holmes Reservation which is popular for dog walking.
Sticking out of Plymouth Harbor, near the boat launch is the jetty. Visitors and tourists alike hop from one boulder to the next on their way out into the ocean on this jetty. From the far end, take a look back and notice the National Monument to the Forefathers rising above the town. Plymouth has its share of recreational and protected lands including the Eel River Preserve and Russell Mill Pond. Wildlands Trust, a southeastern Massachusetts land trust, is headquartered in Plymouth. They operate four protected lands within the confines of Plymouth. The largest park in Plymouth, Myles Standish State Forest, an expansive pine barren ecosystem, is roughly the same area as the city of Providence! It has numerous walking, biking, and hiking trails. Camping is permitted and there are ponds for swimming in the park. There is also a prison buried deep inside the forest.
Taste Treats and Fun Stops:
There are so many dining options for our weekend in Plymouth. Gone are the days of a town devoid of creative cuisine. For a town of its size, Plymouth presents the palate with numerous delicious establishments offering a variety of options. On the waterfront are many touristy, primarily seafood spots. The best of the lobster and seafood shack options is Wood’s. The no-frills dining experience presents the tastiest seafood at reasonable prices. My favorite choices are the seafood platter: fried whole-belly clams, fish, scallops and shrimp; the lobster roll; and the fried oysters. Their batter is just right, not too heavy. Their chowder and bisque are also worth a try.
Across from Wood’s is a dive bar, The Shanty Rose, a working-class establishment great for a few domestic beers, a plate of oysters, and a lobster roll. Cabby Shack is next door and its calling card is its clam chowder which is so thick that they boast “a spoon can stand right up in it.” The chowder is phenomenal. Cabby Shack has an airy Jimmy Buffett in New England vibe and the view is remarkable. (It’s the only place around that also has a live palm tree.) There are many choices of seating: inside, bottom deck, and top deck. The view is like an infinity pool, as it looks as if nothing stands between the ‘Shack and the water. Other waterfront favorites include East Bay Grille, Lobster Hut, Tavern on the Wharf, and Anna’s Harborside Grille, among others.
Court Street Dining
In New England, summer is just one season of the year. While the waterfront is the place to be during the warmer weather, the downtown on Court Street is the best street on the South Shore for cuisine in all four seasons. Beginning at the intersection of Samoset and Court, the first can’t-miss is Dillon’s Local. Located on nearby Park Place, Dillon’s is an upscale Irish pub with some of the best food in town. Their fish and chips is the best I’ve ever had. Dinner is delicious, but so is brunch. Try the Portuguese hash, with chorizo for the meat. It is a small, but well-selected beer list that works. Most of the beers on tap are from New England. Back on Court Street, another super fresh and mouthwateringly appetizing place is The Tasty. The menu always rotates based on season and freshness. Favorites include the salmon and the risotto, the brussels sprouts, and Nori fries.
Still hungry?
Further down the road is Kogi Bar and Grill, a spectacular Korean restaurant. Recommendations include the stone pot dolsot, scallion pancake, and crab rangoon. Kogi is the best Korean food I’ve had. Farther down Court Street is the New World Tavern which has the best beer selection in Plymouth if not the region. The thirty-two taps are constantly changing featuring a variety of beers in style and brand, but certainly always representing the local brewers. Additionally, New World’s list has an extra 120 beers in bottles. Join the beer club, try them all, and get your name on the wall. Although the beer is superb, the food is just as impressive. On weekend nights, the back room opens up as the New World Cavern features regional bands.
More Food Options
The Yellow Deli is right across the street. In cooler weather, expect roaring fires inside this immaculately decorated two-story restaurant. The open-faced egg sandwich is simple, but perfect, and do take home a loaf of bread or a bowl of soup. Kiskadee’s is a funky coffee shop that would fit into Seattle in the 1990s. They brew Speedwell Coffee, a local coffee company from Plymouth. Try their raspberry mocha iced coffee or for a rich treat, the frozen peanut butter cup iced mocha. Another excellent coffee shop is Leyden Street Coffee, with branches in Manomet and soon inside Dirty Water Distillery.
Speedwell Tavern and the original location of the British Beer Company are good beer bars to throw back a pint. Make sure to order the wings at Speedwell though. There is no food at the BBC, but the beer list will make up for that. There are many other superb choices as well, among them Bangkok Bistro, K-Katies Burger Bar, and Cafe Strega. Cafe Strega is a neat little Italian restaurant with its main seating primarily located in a glassed-in room a la a greenhouse. The zuppa de crostaccei is a remarkable variety of seafood over linguini in a red sauce. Do try their softball-sized meatballs as an appetizer and a cannoli for dessert.
Eating outside of downtown
The best Thai food in Plymouth is a take-out-only kitchen called Star of Siam. This tiny restaurant has been cranking out the best Thai since the early 1990s. I typically turn to the pad thai but have heard good reviews about the curry dishes as well as the paradise chicken. A fun breakfast spot in the Pine Hills is the Blueberry Muffin. Also in the Pine Hills is Rye Tavern and the dining room at the Mirabeau Inn and Spa if you’re looking for excellent fine dining. Mirabeau resembles a French chateau. The grounds are impeccably manicured. Make sure to stroll around after a meal. The Pine Hills is a planned residential and commercial community in Plymouth.
Chiltonville
Chiltonville, a small picturesque classic New England village close to the beach and Plimoth Patuxet, is worth a drive through. Stop at Bramhall’s General Store in the summer for a lobster roll on the way to Forges Field with its complex of sports fields. Pass by the horse barns on the way to the game and you will no longer think that you are in Plymouth.
Peaceful Meadows has the best homemade ice cream, but try Ziggy’s for old-fashioned soft serve. Setting the Space is not only a staging company, but its flagship store takes up a large portion of the block and is full of everything from furniture and jewelry to customized signs and children’s clothes. For live music, attend a free concert on Wednesday and Thursday nights throughout the summer at the Pilgrim Memorial State Park Amphitheater and try the Spire Center for the Performing Arts for singer-songwriter-oriented sounds. The Priscilla Beach Theater runs a highly successful summer season of plays and musicals. Plan your weekend in Plymouth around one.
Plymouth’s downtown accommodations include The John Carver Inn, Best Western Plus Cold Spring, and Hotel 1620.
Our weekend in Plymouth comes to an end
A trip to Plymouth is much more than just the Rock and the Plantation. Enjoy its natural beauty, grab a bite at one of its numerous eating establishments, take a sip of a hometown brew, or watch a few innings of a ballgame. The cultural mecca of the South Shore is thriving today like never before.
A Coffee for the Road
Let’s head back down to Manomet for a cup of coffee for the road. My go-to coffee shop is Leyden Street Coffee which is located inside Clement’s Marketplace on Route 3A. It’s got a hip vibe without being pretentious. I always opt for a latte, sometimes with only oat milk, or sometimes a specialty drink such as the Maple Cinnamon Latte or a new fave, the Lavender Raspberry Latte. Whatever you decide you’ll leave happy.
