Backyard Road Trips

White Horse Beach

 

One of the most picturesque beaches in New England can be found in the Manomet section of Plymouth. White Horse Beach has fine, soft sand without the abundance of rocks that plague many of the South Shore’s beaches. The slightly curved coastline is perfect for beach walking, and the expansiveness makes White Horse a winner for a day at the beach. 

White Horse Beach
Entering the beach

White Horse Beach

The irony about White Horse Beach for me is that even though I love the coast and have lived in Plymouth for six years, my recent trip was only my third time actually walking on White Horse Beach. The other two happened during two different times when my aunt and family rented a cottage in Manomet. For my beach excursions in Plymouth, I typically favor Long Beach. The main reasons are that it is closer, the parking is easier, and reason number one is I am able to drive out to the end of Long Beach with my car’s beach sticker. (It’s simply beautiful at the end of the three-mile sandy peninsula that is Long Beach.) Not to be overshadowed by Long Beach, White Horse Beach is exquisite as well. 

Playing football on White Horse Beach, Plymouth, MA

Among my most frequent drives during this time of year has been to Manomet Point to look for the seals that are often basking in the sun on the rocks below. My walk on White Horse Beach occurred soon after the initial closure of schools and businesses. Luckily, it was before the beach was shut down. My son and I tossed the football around and watched dogs run around. 

White Horse Beach
Enjoying a walk on an empty beach.

Like many seaside towns, Manomet’s character has changed over the years. Where there were once vacation amenities such as hotels and a bowling alley, now the neighborhood is primarily residential. Some homes are seasonal and others are occupied year-round. Parking is limited, which keeps the beach less crowded. There is a small lot for cars with town beach stickers. 

Expansive ocean, expansive beach

An Interesting History

White Horse Rock, more commonly known as Flag Rock, has a neat bit of lore that surrounds it. The rock, offshore about a quarter of a mile, is adorned with a painted American flag that gets touched up once it becomes too faded. In 1940, the rock was graffitied with a swastika. (Some say the ocean-facing side also had phrases which were either “Hitler Stalin” or “Heil Hitler” on it.) A group of teenagers, led by the Dreary Brothers, took it upon themselves to paint an American flag over the swastika. Previously, there was an attempt to clean off the swastika, but to no avail. The young people took red, white, and black paint (they had no blue paint) and turned what was once a horrendous eyesore into a point of village pride and patriotism.

All of the brothers enlisted in the service after the attack on Pearl Harbor. One brother lost his life in World War II. Legend says that it may have been Germans who graffitied the rock, as U-boats were known to be cruising the waters off the New England coast during that time. Plymouth is known far and wide for its Fourth of July festivities. Manomet’s celebration takes place on July 3rd and includes the burning of large bonfires, a tradition that has occurred since the 19th century. 

Another beach shot

Be on the lookout for seals and whales

At the end of the aptly named Manomet Point Road is a dramatic ocean view with steep cliffs all around. Look for spouting or breaching whales off the coast, especially in March. At other times of the year, as I see on my frequent rides, seals can be spotted basking on rocks. Also seen from this view is the Pilgrim Nuclear plant which has been decommissioned. 

For more information about White Horse Beach and other South Shore sights, check out my new book, “A History Lover’s Guide to the South Shore” which will be released in late June.

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