Backyard Road Trips

Tides of History: Discovering Hull’s Coastal Legacy This Summer

When the geography of the town, as in Hull’s case, is a thin peninsula protruding into the sea, the way of life, economy, and population are heavily dependent upon the water. Approaching Hull from Route 228 in Hingham, the initial neighborhoods soon give way to the Nantasket Beach area. This was once the bustling seaside amusement village of Paragon Park. Traces of its past remain, including Paragon Park Carousel, the original merry-go-round that was part of the park. Other remnants, such as the arcade and summertime T-shirt-style shops, also recall an earlier time.

Enjoying a ride on the iconic carousel.

The main attraction here is the beach. Nantasket, a long beach full of fine sand, is one of the most popular seaside locales south of Boston. This section is also teeming with restaurants, bars, and the recently renovated Nantasket Beach Resort. This area has been called either the Jersey Shore or the Coney Island of the South Shore (especially in the days when Paragon Park was at its height). The next stretch of the peninsula is largely made up of neighborhoods, with its main street, Nantasket Avenue, lined with restaurants and shops, mostly for the locals, not the tourists. 

Exploring Hull

As Nantasket Avenue bends left, the neighborhoods here are filled with stately Victorian homes. Visiting the tip of Hull is worth the wait. This area contains the Hull Lifesaving Museum and Fort Revere, which sits high atop Telegraph Hill. Hull’s public library and high school are also both here. There are amazing views, including that of the Boston Light, Boston’s iconic lighthouse, which is situated on Little Brewster Island. This light dates from 1783 and is the second oldest in the country. It was the location of an earlier beacon erected in 1716, which was the first built in the future United States.

Nantasket Beach and promenade

At the tip of the peninsula, the views of Boston are gorgeous. A sunset over Hull Gut (the strait that separates the mainland from Peddocks Island) is unmatched and should be witnessed at least once. Pink and orange hues that melt over the Boston skyline are truly breathtaking. 

Sunset on Hull

Its location, forming a natural boundary sticking into the sea, has tied Hull’s history to military defense, including the protection of Boston Harbor. Upon Telegraph Hill in Hull, Fort Independence was built in 1776, which became the eventual site of Fort Revere in 1901. Fort Duvall was located on nearby Hog Island, now known as Spinnaker Island, with a man-made isthmus connecting it to the mainland. Traces of the fort can be seen underneath the condominium complex. (Later, this was used as part of a Nike missile site along with the present-day Webb Memorial State Park located across the bay in Weymouth.)

Peddocks Island, at the tip of the Hull peninsula, was the site of Fort Andrews, a turn of the twentieth century fort which was built to protect Boston Harbor from the south. Fort Andrews was one of the largest fort complexes in the Boston Harbor defense system. The military facility once contained around thirty buildings. Peddocks Island also contains a series of World War II-era fire control towers. There is another one of these towers on the mainland of Hull on Point Allerton.

Fort Revere

  One of the more interesting places in the seaside village of Hull is Fort Revere. Hull’s location, literally jutting out into the ocean, presented it as a prime spot for a fortification defending the area’s major draw, Boston. Fort Revere protected Boston Harbor’s south side, and Fort Heath in the North Shore’s Winthrop stood guard from the north. 

   Sitting atop what is known as Telegraph Hill are the remnants of the former Fort Revere, which stood witness to wartime throughout the history of America. Named after Paul Revere, a military armament of some kind stood on the spot from the days of the American Revolution up through World War II. Originally, this stronghold was named Fort Independence but was later changed to honor local hero Paul Revere.

The area was contemplated for military use as early as 1630, but Castle Island in today’s South Boston was chosen instead. The first fort was built in 1776, and in 1827 the first telegraph tower was positioned there. The tower was used to signal the entrance of ships into the harbor. The tower was knocked down in 1938. The fort consisted of a few gun installations, an officer’s house, a fire tower. and a water tower. Crews taking target and artillery practice led to a ruckus in town, not because of enemy fire, but from damage done to nearby homes and cottages. 

A glimpse into Fort Revere

   Luckily for history buffs, Fort Revere is still (partially) standing today, is (mostly) open, and is free to visit. The public is allowed to explore the ins and outs of the fort, but be forewarned: it gets pretty dark in parts, especially in the tunnels and passageways. Unfortunately, given the fort’s seemingly secluded location, it has become quite the hangout with partying teenagers. Do not be surprised to see empty beer cans, trash, and walls covered in graffiti. 

Visit For Yourself

   Although the guns are gone, the gun mounts are still visible, so you will have to use your imagination when trying to spot a British enemy ship out at sea. Many of the bunkers still exist and can be climbed through. The most striking feature of the park is the 120-foot water tower on the premises. It was built in 1903 with the dual purpose of being a lookout tower as well. Its shape is reminiscent of a large obelisk and not a traditional water tower. Visitors were allowed to climb to the observation deck of the tower from 1975 to 2011, but due to safety concerns, access has been disallowed. Cracks are visible on the interior of the tower as well as the exterior.

Although access to the observation deck and tower is no longer available, the fort’s geographic location on top of a hill provides striking views of some of the Boston Harbor Islands, including Little Brewster Island and Great Brewster Island. The fort has even been used as a performance space for theatrical players since its discontinuation as a military facility. 

A Chilling Tale

   On the south side of the sloping hillside is a cemetery. According to legend, there is a stone in the graveyard with the peculiar inscription “I told you I was sick.” Speaking of legends, some say that the Fort itself is haunted. Disembodied voices and singing have been heard lingering in the bunkers, while eerie shadows have been seen on the walls. 

   The prevalence of forts in New England is quite astounding, but given the fact that five out of six of its states have ocean coastlines, it does make sense. Fort Revere has been a prominent outpost of the military since 1776. Although it no longer defends the nation and city from the threat of enemy ships, it does provide a unique look into the past. In addition to that, thrill seekers will enjoy meandering through its cavernous environs, but unlike many sites, it is legal to do so! While in Hull, take a glimpse at a true stalwart of American military history, Fort Revere.

Little Brewster Island

One of the most iconic of the harbor islands is Little Brewster Island, capped by the Boston Light, the second-oldest lighthouse in the country, bathed in classic white and black. Little Brewster is off-limits to the public. 

Boston Light from the water

Historically speaking, Little Brewster Island was the site of two events during the Siege of Boston during the Revolutionary War. The lighthouse was commanded by the British during this stage of the war. On July 20th, 1775, Continental soldiers burned the wooden parts of the lighthouse and left it in ruins. Eleven days later, soldiers returned to the island, inflicting 42 British casualties, destroying one boat, and ensuring that the British were not able to rebuild the important lighthouse. 

Peddock’s Island is also part of the municipality of Hull. It is part of the Boston Harbor Islands and was the site of Fort Andrews, which dates from the late 19th/early 20th century. Today, its ruins remain. 

Hog Island

   This island was the location of the radar and control center for the NIKE missile site across the bay, but the island’s use for military purposes dates to before that. Initially, it was Fort Duvall, built in 1920 to protect Boston Harbor from attack. A practice shooting session in 1942 caused windows in buildings in nearby Hull to shatter. After World War II, the fort’s use was ultimately eliminated, and it became part of the missile site in 1955. This lasted until 1974.

Although the guns and fortifications have been replaced by a complex of condominiums, the foundation of Fort Duvall can still be seen underneath the modern living spaces. It was renamed Spinnaker Island when the condominiums were built. I guess the proprietor did not feel that “Hog” or “Little Hog” Island would be conducive to condo sales! The island is private, with a causeway connecting it to the tip of Hull’s southern side. Before the roadway, the landmass was an actual island.

Hull Gut and Pemberton Point

   Hull Gut is the deepwater channel that is located at the end of Pemberton Point, the tip of the Hull peninsula. It is a prime fishing spot since, instead of accessing the deep water via watercraft, one has the ability to stand on land and cast into the depths of the sea, which is typically done at farther distances offshore. Fourteen-year-old Rosie Pltenhof made history when she swam back and forth from Peddocks Island to Pemberton Point in Hull. It only took her twenty-two minutes round-trip. Today, swimming is prohibited due to the swift current of the channel.

The name “gut” may sound funny, but all it means is that it is a natural channel through deep water. I’m not much of a fisherman myself, but I do recommend watching the sun dip below the horizon over Hull Gut, as it is one of the prettiest sunset spots on the South Shore. The parking lot, often full of sunset-seekers, attests to its popularity. Follow Main Street to the end of Pemberton Point, historically known as Windmill Point (and also the site of a wind turbine), to locate the parking lot. 

And the kids had a Hull of a time

For a town with deep ties to the sea, Hull has also played an important role in the military history of the region. From coastal armaments to the site of the Boston Light Raids during the American Revolution, visiting Hull presents a tangible piece of regional history.

For more about the history of Hull and other towns in the region, check out my book, A History Lover’s Guide to the South Shore.

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