In the words of Bob and Doug McKenzie, let’s take off (hoser) to Canada. We’re heading to the province of Quebec for a French Canadian road trip. Our journey begins in the province’s largest city, Montreal. It continues east to the agrarian and picturesque Eastern Townships region and commences in the heart of New France, Quebec City. Bienvienue!
Montreal
Located not far over the Canadian border, Montreal is a bustling big city (the second largest in Canada) and a cultural hub. It’s a city of neighborhoods, festivals, and entertainment of all kinds. This itinerary plans for two full days in Montreal; this itinerary sticks to more of the major sites, with a foray into some of the hip neighborhoods and a look into the city’s famous festivals.
Attractions
The following attractions are on land that was used for the Montreal Olympics in 1976, including Olympic Stadium and the Montreal Biodome. The Biodome features five ecosystems of the Americas to walk through.
The Montreal Botanical Gardens are stunning. It includes such features as a Japanese Garden, a Chinese Garden, and a First Nations Garden. The Botanical Gardens are a magical spot, and are highly recommended for a slice of peace and tranquility amongst the hustle of the big city. It borders the Insectarium, which is our next stop.
The Montreal Insectarium is a place full of wondrous insects of all kinds. Think of a natural history museum solely dedicated to bugs.
Parc Jean Drapeau is located on St. Helen’s Island and Ile Notre Dame, in the middle of the St. Lawrence River. One of the park’s most striking manmade features is the Montreal Biosphere, a geodesic dome that houses a museum. Many futuristic buildings in Montreal were built for Expo ‘67.
Basilica Notre Dame is the centerpiece of Vieux (Old) Montreal. Although it was only built in the early 19th century, its style is reminiscent of Medieval churches in Europe. Simply stunning!
Ecorecreo Paddleboats – located on the port of Old Montreal, Ecorecreo offers paddleboats for $34.99 per half hour ($49.99). Powering your own vessel is a fun way to experience the Montreal skyline.
Neighborhoods
Montreal has so many wonderful neighborhoods! Here are a few to investigate:
Old Montreal– Vieux Montreal is a gem. Walk the cobblestone streets with lots of shopping, eateries, and attractions such as the Basilica Notre Dame.
The Village– Historically, the home of Montreal’s LGBTQ community, the Village offers lots for visitors. Hip and tasty eateries of all types, including Au Petit Extra, Restaurant Penacee, and Le Red Tiger. There are many shops and bars as well.
Latin Quarter– this is Montreal at its most French. It has a large student community with many places to eat and stores to visit.
The Plateau-Mont-Royal– This neighborhood is considered one of the city’s hippest. With a young population, it is full of galleries, entertainment venues, nightlife, and plenty of places to eat and drink.
Shopping
Underground City– in addition to all of the funky, fun shopping happening in Montreal’s hip neighborhoods and the souvenir shops of Old Montreal- is the Underground City. The Metro, or subway, is the best way to get around Montreal, and interwoven into the network of subway shops is the underground city. A barrage of shopping malls and walkways connects point A to point B underneath this city. Remember, Montreal gets cold in the winter, and this beats the frigid wind tunnels blasting off the St. Lawrence River.
Specialty Food:
Just like any city, Montreal highlights some of the “gotta try it” French Canadian cuisine, let’s dig in!
Poutine can be had in practically any bar and eatery in French Canada. This mixture of French fries, cheese curds, and gravy may sound off-putting, but it’s a Québécois fixture! Among the best are Montreal Poutine, LaFleur Poutine, and Belle Province.
Crepes– just as in Europe, crepes are a delicious treat, whether sweet or savory. I always opt for sweet. Try them all over the city, including Creperie Chez Suzette, Jardin Nelson, and Muru Crepe.
Montreal-style smoked meat– we’re not in Kansas (City) anymore! Shockingly, we’re in French Canada, but Montreal is known for its smoked meat too. Its tender brisket literally melts in your mouth and originated at Schwartz’s, opened in 1928, and is still recommended almost 100 years later.
Bagels– we’re not in New York anymore! Believe it or not, Montreal is also known for its bagels. Experts say that these are the best in the world! Although there are a few of these, St.-Viateur Bagels takes the cake, I mean dough, for best Montreal bagel. Fairmount Bagel is another longtime favorite.
Festivals
In the summertime, this city is all about the festivals! From comedy to music to food to the arts to gay pride, there’s always something happening in Montreal!
Eastern Townships
Leaving the hustle and bustle of the city, we’re heading to the agricultural Eastern Townships. For most Americans, this is an unknown region. Do yourself a favor and make it known! Use the resort town of Orford or nearby Magog as a center for your adventure.
Lodging
The small town of Orford offers lodging options, including Manoir des Sables and Estrimont. Estrimont has comfortable, spacious rooms that include a porch. The size easily accommodates a family, with two separate sleeping areas in the same room.
The facilities here are fantastic. With a heated pool, an adjoining swim-in hot tub, smaller hot tubs, a dunk pool, and two saunas, the outdoor area is a personal spa. Grab a cocktail from the inside bar and enjoy it on the patio. There are also firepits and seating to relax. Other activities include tennis courts, a bocce court, and an expansive lawn. Estrimont is dog-friendly, so it’s not rare to see a pooch wherever you go.
Eat and Drink
The Eastern Townships are all about food. The region is known for fresh cheese and berries but also includes microbreweries and wineries too!
Indulge yourself at Estrimont’s restaurant, the Tomahawk Grill, for seasonal dishes and hearty options, including steak and seafood. The hotel also includes a coffee shop that doubles as a bar in the later hours.
Des Cantons Microbrasserie (in French, the region is known as Cantons-de-l’Est) is a picturesque brewpub located right on the Magog River. Literally right on, like the deck is really a permanent dock on the river. Expect pub grub such as burgers, salmon, and salad. Try a selection of house-made beers.
Even without a camera, the Eastern Townships will have you “saying cheese”!
Fromagerie La Station, located among rolling hills of farmland in Compton, Quebec, is one of the many cheese shops in the region. Head to the counter and take samples of freshly sliced cheeses of all kinds. I bet you won’t be able to resist taking some with you! Grab other victuals, such as beer and bread, to make the perfect picnic.
Fromagerie Abbaye-St.-Benoît-du-Lac – Not only the living quarters of Benedictine monks and a house of worship, but also one of the region’s best fromageries. In addition to cider and jam, the monks make their own cheese. I’m a big cheese curd fan, and the cheese curds from this fromagerie are the best I’ve ever had. Squeaky and absolutely delicious!
Blueberry picking– Look for pick-your-own blueberry farms in season. Plump, sweet berries scattered in clumps in bushes. Many of these farms are no-frills, just pay for your bucket and go pick. No fancy hayrides or farm stores, just fresh fruit.
Drink:
Domaine Ives Hill specializes in cassis, or wines made from black currant. I enjoyed all of the wine I sampled here, but my absolute favorite was the cassis slushie. It took the best qualities of the wine and blended them into an icy drink. It was heavenly on a hot day!
What to do:
Abbaye-St.-Benoit-du-Lac– Even though I spoke fondly of the cheese curds, the abbey of this order of Benedictine monks is worth a visit, even if you don’t like cheese. It is located on the shores of Lake Memphremagog. This large lake crosses country lines as the southernmost part of it is in Newport, Vermont.
The abbey offers tours but also allows visitors to explore certain areas of it on their own including in the corridors and the church. There are plenty of other activities available, including apple picking in the fall.
Cherry River Marsh is a perfect place for an outdoor adventure. Kids and adults alike will enjoy crossing over boardwalks and getting slightly lost in the trail system of the nature preserve. Before setting foot into the woods, make sure to check out the nature museum with facts about the geographic region and the wildlife that calls it home.
Bleu Lavande – Stroll among the expansive lavender fields of Bleu Lavande. On a pretty day, enjoy sipping a beverage outside, have a picnic, or let the kids romp on the playground on site. There are plenty of photo ops as you explore the grounds.
Lake Memphremagog is a hub for water sports and other activities in the region. Try boating or taking a lake cruise. In the town of Magog, lakefront fun includes heading to the beach or biking on the trail on its shores. Speaking of biking, it’s a very popular way to get around the Eastern Townships.
Quebec City
In the heart of New France is Quebec City. Visit Old Quebec, which feels like a trip to Europe without crossing an ocean. With stunning architecture and French cuisine, it feels light-years away from even the rest of Quebec City outside the city walls.
Quebec City is perched high atop a cliff overlooking the mighty Saint Lawrence River. Old Quebec is where you’ll want to spend your time. Accentuated by the stately Chateau Frontenac, this hotel is pictured on many a souvenir sold in the touristy shops. Just enjoy meandering through the streets of the old town. It is separated into two distinct sections, Upper Town and Lower Town. You’ll know when you’re in Lower Town when you descend on foot or funicular to sea level.
What’s so wonderful about Quebec City is that it’s easy to do nothing. This means, without tickets to a show or even to a museum, just enjoying the surroundings. Shopping, dining al fresco or indoors, and taking in the sights and sounds are what make this city so special.
Attractions
I’ll offer a few suggestions of things to do both in Old Quebec and outside the city gates in other parts of the city.
The Quebec Civilization Museum is a great place to visit if you’re looking for an indoor activity. The museum focuses on society and people. It has a regional emphasis and also has rotating exhibits. There is a large themed play area for kids on the ground floor.
The Aquarium of Quebec is known for its tunnel of fish. The visitor literally walks through a fish tank that surrounds them. There are outdoor and indoor displays that include sea life from polar bears to starfish. There is a large hands-on tank that is always popular. The grounds of the aquarium are tranquil and offer a scenic pathway from one exhibit to the next. The Aquarium is located in the Sainte-Foy section of Quebec City (which was once its own city).
Historic Attractions
The Citadelle of Quebec provides an interesting glimpse into the military history of the city. Although the British retained control of the region during the Seven Years’ War of the mid-1700s, the province has retained its predominantly French ties. The Citadelle, though, focuses on British history, where crowds once gathered to see the Changing of the Guard and now listen to a concert performed weekly by the Grenadier Guards, known for their iconic red coats and tall bearskin caps. Take a tour of the Citadelle grounds.
Nearby is the Plains of Abraham, where General Wolfe’s British forces conquered General Montcalm’s French forces, which would signal a shift from France to England.
Today, the Plains of Abraham is a wide park that is perfect for picnicking, biking, and flying kites, with scenic river views. On the far end of the park is the Plains of Abraham Museum. Here, trace the historical events that occurred just outside its walls and the effects on what would become Canada going forward. Not only about the battle, but there are also informative exhibits on the history of the actual land throughout the years. There are interactive displays like stocks and a tent that kids will enjoy on the top floor.
Just outside the city, the Montmorency Falls are stunning. Taller than Niagara, these falls pour water, creating a breathtaking vista. A vista that travellers can get close to via a bridge, scaling the sides, or even via a zipline. Park down at the base of the falls and take the gondola up to the top, or park atop. Either way, though, the parking lots cost money.
Food
Dining in Quebec City is plentiful. Quite honestly, just grab a table al fresco and enjoy being outside in this magical city. The Upper and Lower Towns are full of these Parisian-style bistros. Many of those cater to the tourists, though, and serve food that one would expect. I like to find creperies or other places with more French Canadian fare.
Two touristy restaurants that I always enjoy are Le Cochon Dingue for breakfast or lunch, featuring dishes such as omelettes or steak frites. There are six locations in Quebec City and one in Montreal. Find me at the one in Lower Town. I also like L’OMELETTE for crepes in Upper Town.
Venturing into Château Frontenac was always a favorite activity. Grab a drink at the beautiful bar or even enjoy dinner. During my latest visit, the Chateau’s grounds were only accessible to overnight guests.
Some of my favorite places to eat and imbibe are outside the city walls, though. Brewpubs such as La Korrigane and Noctem Artisans combine excellent beer with tasty upscale gastropub grub.
Sweet!
A guilty pleasure of mine when visiting any tourist destination in Canada are beavertails, the Canadian version of fried dough. Find the beavertail stand Queues de Castor in French Canada or the BeaverTails chain in English-speaking Canada. Either way, these fun treats are tres bien! You can choose it with an array of toppings, but I like mine basic with cinnamon and sugar.
One of my favorite dining and cultural experiences in the Quebec City region is going to sugar shacks. The Érablière le Chemin du Roy sugar shack combines an evening (or afternoon) of traditional fiddle music and dancing with local cuisine, including baked beans, pea soup, pancakes, and maple ham and sausage. It’s all you can eat, too, so come hungry. During the winter, sleigh rides are offered around the property. During sugaring season, see how the trees are tapped for fresh maple syrup. As a treat in the winter, your host will drizzle maple syrup outside in the snow. Take a popsicle stick, and after rolling it a few times, voila, a frozen maple treat!
Seasonal Fun
Winter Carnival – Meandering through the streets and alleys of Vieux Quebec, all festooned with lights and winter decorations in February, makes this stark season come alive. This Winter Carnival lasts two weeks and is world-renowned, and includes ice castles, parades, and even a mascot, Bonhomme!
From the urban metropolis of Montreal to the slow-paced, rural feel of the Eastern Townships to the old-world charm of Quebec City, this Quebecois road trip will make you scream Oui! Au revoir!
For more Québécois fun, check out the lovely Île d’Orléans.
