From Bourne to Orleans
When Patti Page sings of “quaint little villages” and “winding roads” in her 1957 hit song, Old Cape Cod, she must have been referring to The Old King’s Highway, better known as Route 6A. Three major routes traverse the Upper Cape from the bridges to the Orleans rotary (which are then funneled into one, Route 6 to Provincetown). The quickest is the non-descript highway, Route 6 which begins at the Sagamore Bridge. Route 28 is another route, this winds its way along the southern coast of the Cape and presents the peninsula as a family-friendly kid zone (think beach motels, mini golf, ice cream, and fast food). The last option is Route 6A. It travels the northern coast of the Cape with iconic images of white colonial houses, hydrangea bushes, and charming town centers.
A road serves two purposes; typically it’s sole function is as a mechanism for travel from one place to another, less frequently, the road is also the destination. Route 6A is an example of the latter. Sure, there are numerous sightseeing stops, restaurants, inns and attractions, but take them as a whole, take this road as one entity with many parts.
“Down the Cape”
Just like the dissection of the word “road”, Cape Cod reinvents itself as the traveler sees fit. For some, the Cape means summer; all-day beach trips, and the aforementioned poolside hotels, penny candy stores and kid-friendly establishments. For others, they may only experience Chatham and its high society feel or Provincetown’s bohemian vibe. Families vacationing at the same Route 28 timeshare in Yarmouth year after year may have never even traveled to the opposite side of town, Yarmouthport, or its center on 6A. For a small strip of land, the Cape transforms its identity to suit the person (hence why it’s such a tourist destination in the summertime).
Bourne
Take the first exit off of the Sagamore Bridge after crossing over the Cape Cod Canal to start the journey. A right off this exit and you are on 6A in the Sagamore section of Bourne. The itinerary does not have to be done in a certain order. The suggestions are given on a purely geographical basis.
The first place of note is Pairpoint Glass. Here witness the artistry of glassmaking on display by professional glassblowers or purchase hand-blown glassware to take home. Right across the street is the most distinctive branch of the Christmas Tree Shop chain. Up the driveway, it’s noticeable due to the adjacent old fashioned windmill. Christmas Tree Shops have an array of odds and ends; from home furnishings to holiday decor, discount DVDs and books to specialty food items. For some travelers, it’s a yearly pilgrimage that must be made.
Sandwich
Crossing into Sandwich, Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe greets you on the left. The building looks like a house, so it can be easy to miss. The flavors are delicious, favorites include Kahlua chip, cake batter, and chocolate peanut butter cookie dough. FYI: The scoops are quite big! For lunch, Cafe Chew is close by. This small cafe, specializing in coffee, sandwiches, and salads has a hip vibe, with its decor strewn with road signs and jazz playing on the stereo. For seafood, Seafood Sam’s (a small local chain) does fried seafood well, it’s located near the town marina on the canal.
Another option is the Sandwich branch of the British Beer Company. The British Beer Company features many drafts and bottles from the British Isles but has a stellar regional and national craft beer list as well. Their food is tasty, hearty pub fare (think shepherd’s pie, pot roast, or burgers). The Marshland Restaurant and the Uncommon Cafe are fine spots for a quick breakfast or lunch. Two accommodations the Sandwich Lodge and the Earl of Sandwich Motel (a little further up the road) offer classic motel-style lodging right on 6A.
Back on 6A and paralleling the road, but just out of site, at this point is the Cape Cod Canal and bike path. If bikes are in tow, it’s worth it to spend some time on two wheels. Although parking lots are found sporadically alongside it, I’d recommend parking at the Sandwich Marina Park which can be accessed via Town Neck Road. Take off west towards Bourne on the path. Once you are past the ugly power plant on the left, the rest of the path is serene. The route is about eight miles, so go for how long or as little as your party would like.
One stop further into Bourne is the Aptucxet Trading Post, this was the site of a 1627 trading post, the first in Plymouth County. The trading post is open to the public and there is also a windmill on site. One side of the path is primarily wooded with views of neighborhoods while the other side is an open view into the canal. Bike on by tugboats pulling barges through the waterway and pleasure boats that speed in and out of site. Bike past the original parking lot onto the dirt packed short trail which leads to Scusset Harbor. It’s the end (or starting) point of the canal with a free beach and a jetty to walk out on.
The Sandwich Boardwalk
One of Sandwich’s true gems is just off of 6A on the aptly named Boardwalk Road, and that is the Sandwich Boardwalk. The parking lot is the entrance to the roughly quarter-mile-long Sandwich boardwalk. Most planks of the boardwalk are etched with the name, a saying or initials of those who purchased a plank for a fundraiser to replace the former boardwalk which was destroyed by Hurricane Bob in 1991. The boardwalk rises above vast layers of marshland, with inlets racing this way and that. The end of the boardwalk leads to another parking lot and to Sandwich Town Beach. This boardwalk was voted one of the ten best in the country by National Geographic. In 2021, Tree House Brewing Company will be opening a Cape Cod location close to the boardwalk.
For a diversion, Sandwich Mini Golf is 36 holes, some of it quite challenging play (think hitting over an active, natural stream), tucked into a small plot of land on 6A. Choose from 18 holes or the whole 36. The course isn’t full of plastic obstacles or roaring dinosaurs but presents a fun dose of competition amongst friends or family. Green Briar Nature Center and Jam Kitchen and Thornton Burgess Society are just off of 6A on Discovery Hill Road. The nature center has live animals and hosts a number of activities and classes. Walk around the grounds, amongst the wildflowers, and see the briar patch made famous by Thornton Burgess’ Peter Rabbit character.
The jam kitchen holds classes to cook their famous jam. At the store, the kitchen’s products are available to sample and purchase. The gift shop also includes Burgess memorabilia as well as gardening goodies. Before you say goodbye to Sandwich, Titcomb’s Bookshop is worth a peek. Look for the statue of the man dressed in colonial garb as the landmark to the driveway. The selection is both new and antique. The store hosts many author events and also has a selection of games and other trinkets.
Barnstable
After leaving the confines of Sandwich, Barnstable is the next Cape town to enter. Although Barnstable is best known for its largest village, Hyannis, Barnstable center is on 6A and is a destination in its own right. 6A meanders through West Barnstable and then to Barnstable center. In Barnstable center, take the Millway to the harbor. A good stop-off is at the restaurant Mattakeese Wharf, overlooking the harbor and the whale watch boats. Expect all seafood favorites done well like schrod, lobster, and cioppino.
Back on 6A, the old customs house is now the Coast Guard Heritage Museum. Peer through artifacts chronicling the history of the Coast Guard. The exhibits are informative and the tour guides are very knowledgeable. The Sturgis Library, the local branch library, circa 1645, is the former home of John Lothrop, early minister of the Barnstable Church. The former home’s current use as the library is the public’s gain, since the library is a municipal building, feel free to wander the stacks while taking in the architecture.
Yarmouth
Similar to Barnstable, Yarmouth, and Dennis are also better known for their southerly parts of town. The bayside of both of these are gorgeous though; harbors, colonial houses, and inns. Located in a white Cape Cod-style house with black shutters is one of the Cape’s premier restaurants. Although the specialty is fish (just like everywhere else on the Cape), it’s not fried or baked! The restaurant is Inaho and is lauded for its sushi. After all the fish shacks, well done (or actually, raw) sushi is a tasty reprieve. The menu offers typical sushi fare as well as creative options. Enjoy a negihamachi roll (yellowtail scallion) along with the saba gari maki (mackerel, ginger, and cucumber).
If a top-rated sushi spot doesn’t set Yarmouth apart, maybe the Edward Gorey House will. Edward Gorey was an author and illustrator whose gothic, sometimes morbid work is distinct. His pen and ink illustrations were finely detailed using only black and white. Some of his best-known books were The Doubtful Guest and the Gashlycrumb Tinies. The latter is a dark take on an alphabet book, but it is definitely not for young children. Step into his world with a tour of his house in Yarmouthport.
Gray’s Beach is a quick ride from Yarmouth center. Although Yarmouth is well known for its oceanside beaches like Seagull and Parkers River, Gray’s is a small beach surrounded by salt marsh with a prime view of nearby Chapin Memorial Beach. The most unique feature of the beach is the Bass Hole Boardwalk. The boardwalk extends into the bayside estuary and is a popular place for an after dinner walk. As the sun sets, the view of the bay, marsh and beach are a romantic backdrop. It’s a great way to usher in the evening; whether a last stop before heading home, to your lodging or just a diversion before the next activity.
Dennis
Dennis’ first must-visit is Captain Frosty’s. A true clam shack, this Dennis institution is perfect for both its seafood and its ice cream. This place has been here for over 40 years! With scrumptious fried clams, hearty lobster rolls, and soft-serve ice cream; if summer has a taste, Captain Frosty’s would be it! It’s interior and exterior is just what you’d expect, not many frills, but it doesn’t matter when the food tastes this good. Dennis’ arts district is comprised of the Cape Playhouse, Cape Cod Museum of Art, and the Cape Cinema. All of these are clustered together along with a few restaurants on the bayside of Route 6A.
The Cape Playhouse’s season runs in the summer and has been in use since 1927. Notable performers have graced its stage for over 90 years including Humphrey Bogart, Betty White, and Bette Davis. The shows range from well-known musicals to lesser-known comedies plus the inevitable children’s plays scattered throughout. The Cape Cod Museum of Art houses a collection of art from the early 1900s to the present day. The museum itself is an attractive blue building with a tower and portico as its centerpiece. Many of the pieces reflect the natural beauty of the Cape. Paintings by the likes of Henry Hensche, Alexander Calder, and John Joseph Enneking adorn the walls. The museum also offers rotating exhibits. Recent shows have displayed the works of Vernon Smith as well as a photography gallery with works by six highly regarded modern photographers.
On and Off the Beaten Path
A bit more off the beaten path, but close to this complex is the Scargo Tower. The tower is located on top of Scargo Hill and from the top of the thirty-foot stone spire, the visitor can overlook the nearby Scargo Lake and on a clear day, see their way deep into the bay, and if they are lucky, all the way to the Pilgrim Monument in Provincetown. Although the tower is only thirty feet, its prominent position atop the hill gives it a bird’s eye view of the surroundings. Another popular Dennis destination with the Scargo moniker is Scargo Pottery. This artist-run pottery studio and shop is famous for its well-crafted pottery with beautiful designs. It was opened by artist Harry Holl in 1952.
If Scargo Tower is a hidden gem, the Sesuit Harbor Cafe is hidden geographically, at the end of Sesuit Neck Road (not far off of 6A) in the middle of a working marina, but hidden from the public it is not. The wait here is often incredibly long, good luck in season trying to even find a parking spot during prime times. There is a good reason why there is such a demand though, the seafood is amazing. It’s best known for its lobster rolls, fried seafood, and raw bar. Wait in line, place your order, pick it up and then wedge your way into communal picnic tables. Watch the boats embark from the harbor while others have just finished their journeys.
Brewster
Route 6A continues its coastal voyage in the town of Brewster. Known for its natural beauty, with its beaches, tidal flats and ponds, it also has a postcard-perfect town center with a general store and luxury dining and lodging accommodations. The first two Brewster locales when coming in from Dennis is the Drummer Boy Park and the Cape Cod Museum of Natural History.
Drummer Boy Park has a playground, gazebo, and a lush lawn for running, but its primary draw is the Old Higgins’ Farm Windmill as well as the adjacent Harris-Black House and Henry Hopkins Blacksmith Shop. The windmill dates from the 18th century and can be toured with a miller still “on duty.” Its shingled facade is adorned with four spinning blades. Cape Cod is known for its windmills, as it has a few left in existence. This is a prime representation and one that the visitor can get up close and personal with.
The next stop is the Cape Cod Natural History Museum. The exhibits in the museum will appeal to children and parents alike. They feature displays of stuffed native birds, a display on the honeybee and information about the area’s indigenous peoples. Although the museum itself is a fine attraction, it’s the outside trails that really draw visitors in. The Lee Baldwin Trail begins across the street from the museum, its path winds its way through a beech forest. It crosses the Stony Brook, which is a serene bit of fresh water and also is a popular spot for herring on their annual migratory run each spring.
The most popular trail though is the Wing Island Trail. This trail begins in the woodlands, crosses through marshland (make sure to stay walking on the boards placed across), and finally to the beach and tidal flats. It presents many different ecosystems of the Cape on a one-mile trek. On a gorgeous day, take some time to enjoy the flats and beach at the end of the trail. This museum is a real find.
Dining, Shopping and Lodging in Brewster
In the middle of the town of Brewster is the Brewster Store. It’s an old fashioned general store offering penny candy, Cape Cod merchandise, books, and other items you didn’t know you needed. It’s a fun throwback and the kids will love it. The store exemplifies Route 6A. It has an old-world charm and is a bit slower-paced than the rest of the country. Chillingsworth is Brewster’s finest establishment for upscale dining. Its menu veers towards the French bistro with entrees highlighting the freshest in seafood and meat. Like many of the businesses on 6A, this former abode’s tasteful decor is the perfect backdrop for a romantic dinner, leave the kids at home!
Retire to the nearby Ocean Edge Resort. With its luxurious mansion, cottages, spa, restaurants, world-class golf course, private beach, and pool, this place is a taste of paradise on the Cape. The most difficult part about staying here is that you won’t want to leave the grounds (you won’t have to with all it has to offer).
The Cape Rep Theater is another of the Cape’s artistic landmarks. It’s summer season’s shows are performed outside while the winter season is in house. The theater is actually on the grounds of NIckerson State Park. If camping is more suited to your family’s taste, stake out a spot at this popular state park and campground. Its natural features include numerous sparkling freshwater ponds and walking trails. Across from the main section of the park is where the playhouse is. At the far side of this part of the park is Linnell Landing Beach. This part of the bay side’s beaches contain expansive tidal flats that leave ripples in the sand. Children will have fun exploring the tide pools and the whole family will love the ability to walk a good distance out into the ocean due to the receding tide.
On the other side of the park is Cobie’s, Brewster’s venerable clam shack that has been in existence for 70 years. This place always pops up on top ten Cape seafood joint lists. Expect tasty fried seafood and ice cream. This part of Brewster and Nickerson is the location of the Cape Cod Rail Trail Bike Path. The path begins in Dennis and ends in Wellfleet on the line that was once the Old Colony railroad. It runs for twenty-two miles through all types of terrain. It also passes by ponds, woods and runs relatively close to the ocean.
Orleans
All things good things must come to an end the journey ends in the next town of Orleans. Orleans is the village where Route 6A merges with Route 28 and Route 6 at the rotary. The three routes collide and funnel into one road, Route 6. Orleans has much to offer, but only a small section of it is on Route 6A. The Lobster Claw is a favorite for the namesake crustacean as well as other seafood selections. Land Ho is a popular pub with sandwiches and seafood entrees. Its beer selection is not vast but typically does include Dennis based brewery, Devil’s Purse on draft.
The Jonathan Young Windmill is one of the last sites on 6A before the rotary. This wooden grey shingled windmill could quite possibly be the oldest of such structures in the country, dating from around 1720. It still functions with a miller on duty. Its location is in Town Cove Park. The setting is quite serene, a lush green field punctuated by the windmill with the cove’s dark blue water serving as a backdrop which feels miles away from the busy mid-cape highway (even though it’s just around the corner).
The Route 6A Journey Concludes
Clearly, Cape Cod has an attraction, a restaurant, and a place of natural beauty to fit almost anyone’s personal preference. Even Route 6A, a break from the busier ocean side Cape Cod offers an array of activities; from romantic to family-friendly, from outdoor dining and lodging to the epitome of luxury with resorts, inns and upscale restaurants. Unlike many state roads, 6A has the distinction of not only being the means to an end if you are traveling to the Lower Cape, but also is a destination in itself. Even if you are traveling up to Provincetown, Chatham or Truro, take this road either on the way there or the way home.
Yes, it will take longer than bland Route 6, but it will intrigue and possibly make you want to take your next vacation somewhere on this route. This trip can be done as a whole, or just enjoy a village or two. Additionally, if you are visiting other nearby places on the Cape, use this guide to enjoy a taste of 6A. There are so many more eating establishments, accommodations, stores, and natural places to enjoy than are on here, this is just an overview of what the area has to offer. The towns also have much more to them than just what is on Old Kings Highway, but that will be saved for another article.
