Historic Waltham

I lived in Newton, Massachusetts, for about five years after graduating from college. The bucolic, affluent suburb was a tremendous city to live in but did lack a certain urbanity that I craved. Boston was close certainly, but Waltham was a quicker and easier drive. Waltham, the next town over, was a great small city to head to for a walk or jog on the river, go out to eat, or to grab a beer. Historic Waltham came into view while jogging along the Charles River and seeing the old factories. Additionally, one of my first favorite craft breweries was Watch City Brewing Company, a brewpub that unfortunately went under a few years back. Other spots I would frequent include the Mad Raven and Bison County. Former factories still line the Charles River today. Many are apartments or commercial spaces.  Known for its watch industry, Waltham is a small slice of the Industrial Revolution just outside of Boston. There is much to explore in historic Waltham.

Historic Waltham

The industrial heritage of Waltham is apparent by just driving on its main drag, Moody Street. There is a hidden element of Waltham though, and this is what this passage is all about, the hidden historic Waltham. As a resident of Newton, I would spend many an afternoon exploring the surrounding towns. Metropolitan State Hospital and the Walter E. Fernald State School in Waltham were always popular destinations. As part of my first job after college, I took a group to Fernald to deliver recyclable cans. Condos sit where Metropolitan once was. The administration building still stands, decaying behind red shutters. In addition to the ever-creepy abandoned state hospitals, Waltham had its share of hidden estates, parks, and museums that were intriguing. This is a tour (outsides only due to COVID-19) of hidden, historic Waltham. My last visit to the Watch City occurred the same day as my backyard road trip to Maynard, MA.   

Gore Place

Gore Place was the mansion of Massachusetts Senator Christopher Gore. He earned his wealth as a lawyer and an industrial financier. The design of the striking brick estate is in the Federalist style. 1806 is the year of the summer home’s construction. Guests of the Gore Family at this home include the Marquis de Lafayette, James Monroe, and Daniel Webster. The center part of the home flanks out to each symmetrical side. The estate passed from family to family and ended up bank-owned. Through the work of preservation groups, the house stands today. Visitors can take tours of the home. Also on the property are farm animals. The estate grounds are free to walk around and many take advantage of them. For more information visit the property at 52 Gore Street in Waltham or visit online at www.goreplace.org. This is one of the jewels of the crown that is historic Waltham.   

Lyman Estate

Another impressive mansion is the former home of Theodore Lyman, a merchant from Boston. The Lyman Estate is in the Federal style. It originally sat on 400 acres. There are 24 rooms in the home. The estate’s architect is Samuel McIntire. McIntire’s work includes houses on beautiful Chestnut Street in Salem, Massachusetts. Completed in 1798, it was expanded to its current state in 1882. The Lyman Estate is famous for its greenhouses, the first in the country. Currently, plants still grow here and are available for purchase by the public. Recently, this estate was featured in the 2019 adaptation of Little Women. It is run by the preservationist group, Historic New England. Tours of the home are available. The estate is located at 185 Lyman Street in Waltham.   

Stonehurst

A generation or so later of Lymans, Lydia Lyman married famed lawyer and philanthropist Robert Treat Paine who had erected another summer “home” just up the street from the Lyman Estate. The architect Gridley Fox Bryant designed his original summer home. Bryant’s architectural masterpieces include the Old Boston City Hall and other beautiful buildings, many that are in Boston. This home was deemed too small for the large family of Paines. 

The home was reconstructed by a combination of two heavyweights of the architectural field: Henry Hobson Richardson and landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted. Richardson is best known for his masterpiece Trinity Church in Boston, and Olmsted as the landscape architect of such popular green spaces as Central Park and Boston’s Emerald Necklace. Here is the only publicly accessible home that is a collaboration between these two. It features ample use of fieldstone and rounded arches, two distinguishable traits of Richardson. (For more Richardson, read the Backyard Road Trips piece on Easton, Massachusetts.) The interior is bathed in dark wood with large windows providing natural light. Tours of the home are available and it is a popular spot for weddings and other events. 

And the Grounds are Not Too Shabby Either…

Stonehurst’s location is on a rocky outcropping with quite breathtaking views of the skyline. It was completed in 1886, actually after Richardson’s death. The home remained in the family until 1974 upon the donation of the property and grounds to the City of Waltham by descendant Theodore Lyman Storer. The adjacent wooded grounds were part of the estate. There are plenty of trails worth exploring in the Storer Conservation Area. It is located at 100 Robert Treat Paine Drive. 

 

Charles River Museum of Industry

But First a Little Bit of Industrial History

To preface the importance of Waltham’s history, it is important to know a bit about industrial history. During the Industrial Revolution in New England, there were two major building styles for factories. The first, known as the Rhode Island System, was based on the first factory on a waterway in New England. This was Slater Mill, located in Pawtucket, Rhode Island. As the years progressed, a second system known as the Waltham System was developed. (Later this system was emulated to create large planned factory cities such as Lowell and Lawrence, Massachusetts.) The difference was that in the Rhode Island System a mill was created and a town sprung up around it. Different buildings housed different operations. The Waltham System was planned on a much larger scale with each step of the textile manufacturing process often occurring under the same roof or complex. 

This industrial wave began by Francis Cabot Lowell of the Boston Manufacturing Company. The first spinning and weaving factory was designed by him and was powered by the Charles River in Waltham. It was the largest of this kind of factory in the world at the time. This completely revolutionized textile production. 

And Now Back to the Museum

The Charles River Museum of Industry showcases Waltham’s place in the history of the Industrial Revolution in America. It is actually housed in the original Boston Associates factory. It is considered the first factory, with all steps of the design process happening in this one building. Other collections highlight the importance of the watch industry in Waltham. Waltham’s nickname is the “Watch City.” The former Waltham Watch Factory is located farther down the Charles River and has been beautifully restored into apartments. The tall brick walls and high ceilinged rooms are perfect to house this collection. Believe it or not, this is also a popular (just like the previously mentioned estates) wedding venue! It is the home to one of the largest Steampunk festivals in the world, the annual Watch City Steampunk Festival. Steampunk takes the ethos of punk rock and mixes it with the Victorian age, albeit with futuristic elements. The museum is located at 154 Moody Street in Waltham. It’s best accessed by the parking lot across from the Charles River that is connected by a footbridge. The museum opened in 1988. 

Rose Art Museum

The Rose Art Museum, located on the campus of Brandeis University, is a work of modern art itself. Its glass window paned facade provides a hint of what is inside. Its collection includes works by Jasper Johns, Willem de Kooning, Andy Warhol, and Roy Lichtenstein. This is a bright, airy museum and that reflects the prizes found inside. 

The museum has had its share of bad press though, as it once owned pieces by the likes of Renoir and Toulouse-Lautrec but sold them off. Additionally, it was slated to close in 2009, just shy of the fifty years since its opening. After a legal battle, it reopened in 2011. An apt design for the entryway of the museum is Chris Burden’s Light of Reason. Its three rows of Victorian-style lamp posts add a unique layer to the museum. Many events, including concerts, have taken place beneath the lamp posts. In addition to events, the museum features rotating pieces of its permanent collection as well as special exhibitions. 

For now, the museum’s collection is not open and is not hosting events. The Rose Art Museum is only viewable on the outside and it is located on the campus of Brandeis University in Waltham. 

Carl’s Steak Subs

After all that history, it’s definitely time for a bite. Carl’s Steak Subs is a little shop with a lotta taste! My visit occurred during takeout-only season. It didn’t matter too much since Carl’s is basically only carry-out with just a handful of outdoor tables. I ordered their classic steak and cheese. It’s delicious! And huge. A large lasted me for lunch and dinner. My wife ordered the MOAB- or Mother Of All Burritos. Talk about chock full! It was a tasty mix of chicken, chipotle sauce, rice, and veggies. Visit Carl’s at 55 Prospect Street in Waltham. 

Waltham is perfect for exploration. With a mix of interesting museums and estates to roam around in, there is plenty to do in the Watch City. Grab yourself a cheesesteak and take in the sites of Historic Waltham. Whether it is from the car, or hopefully soon, a trip inside, Waltham should be on your list of backyard road trips!