The Bishop House Museum is a place that I have driven by hundreds of times. Its location on South Burnham Highway (Route 169) in Lisbon, Connecticut, is the starting line for my favorite drive of all time, Route 169 from Lisbon to Woodstock. It was the ride I took as a kid traveling from Norwich to Danielson every other weekend to visit my grandmother. Not until I was older did I realize what a truly beautiful drive this is. Route 169 is bucolic New England. Unlike another one of my favorite roads, Route 117 in Massachusetts, the towns that Route 169 travels through in some cases, could hardly be considered towns, since they are so small and rural. As the route culminates in Pomfret and Woodstock, there are more “attractions” per se (still we’re not talking Manhattan!).
Although I’m from Norwich and should take pride that my favorite route begins in my hometown, I feel the essence of the road actually starts in the village of Newent which is the “center” of Lisbon (the next town north of Norwich). See this route for me is to see the countryside, Route 169 in Norwich and then north of Woodstock into Massachusetts shows industrial heritage, which to me is NOT the point of my intended journey. Route 169 is one of two National Scenic Byways in Connecticut (along with the Merritt Parkway). The road winds its way by gorgeous Colonial homes, fields, and stonewalls. Although the speed limit is 45 in most spots, take your time. It’s worth it.
On to Lisbon
I just told you to slow down, right? Well, then why did it take me so long to head to the Bishop House Museum? I won’t lie, I often see the towns farther north as the jewels in the crown of Route 169 so I really don’t spend much time out of the car in the towns farther south (a la Lisbon and Canterbury). I know I need to change that, so that’s why I decided to explore Lisbon, which I had already done in some capacity with the Taft Tunnel in More Connecticut Lore.
Walktober: Don’t Miss Out!
The Bishop House Museum is a historic home that is under the tutelage of the Historical Society and acts as a heritage center of sorts for the town. It offers cooking demonstrations and is open for seasonal events around the holidays. It’s often part of the amazing Walktober series sponsored by The Last Green Valley. (Please check out Walktober if you can; it’s truly exceptional). This walking series started out as a “Walking Weekend,” I believe over Columbus Day weekend, over 20 years ago with walks offered all around northeastern Connecticut, spilling even farther north into Massachusetts (below Worcester).
Now the walks number over 100 and include walks in almost every town in the region during the whole month of October, mostly on weekends (actually now late September to early November). The amazing part is almost all of the walks (save for a special few) are free. They highlight history, nature, or cultural aspects of a place. They take you to truly unique spots, some of which are only accessible via this guided tour. (Keep your eyes peeled, I’ll be hosting a walk around Norwichtown at 10 AM on 10/26.)
I’ll stop my rambling. On to the museum.
The Bishop House Museum is located on the southwest corners of Routes 169 and 138. It’s a striking, rambling home circa 1810. Although I had passed this for years (including as a child, when it was in quite the state of neglect), I had never stopped in. This changed on an incredibly hot and humid day this July. (Good thing I opt for the non-air conditioned places on days like that–I could have gone to a brewery!)
The museum is open for tours in the summer season, typically from 10 to 2 on Saturdays. I was greeted by Marcia Shafer, a gracious host, and the town historian.
The Tour
The tour was not just the story of the home, but the story of the Bishop, Browne, and Bradlaw (or Bredlow) families (you needed a “B” last name to stay at this home). The interior is pleasantly restored with mostly period pieces, and the story of the work that went on to restore this home is extensive!
For instance, at first glance in the kitchen (where the tour begins) one cannot help but notice the immense stove. When the town and then historical society acquired this property in 1987, this was all plastered in. Acting like archeologists, they had to dig through to uncover the vast hearth beneath, which is now operative and is used for cooking classes and demonstrations. Check their Facebook page for info.
The 219-year-old home has been described by the local antique home expert, realtor, and author Ed Friedland as a “post-colonial wood-framed farmhouse” In his write-up about the home, he called this the most well-preserved, authentic antique he has ever witnessed, as not much was changed in the home during its existence.
From the Outside
On the outside, it looks like a long, white colonial home with two front doors, two chimneys, and fan lights. The interior does not have the fanciful ornamentation of homes built during the Victorian Age but does have unique features in itself, including scalloping on the main staircase, and a large front door called a funeral door as it looks directly into the village church across the street. The home was used for post-funeral (and other church events) gatherings.
The exquisite windows that can be seen facing the road all have the ability to be blocked via sliding a piece behind them. The accessibility for freshwater into the home was via a bucket tied out a pantry window (still there). On-site is a recreated carriage shed, as the previous one was beyond rehabilitation. Also, on-site is a replica barn designed to the exact measurements of the earlier incarnation.
Among the curious accouterments of the home is a giant meathook, an antiquated wheelchair, and human bones. Yes, a display of human bones which date from the 1890s as one owner, Dr. Browne, used his home as his office.
The home was passed from the Bishops to the Brownes in 1818 and to the Bredlows (Bradlaws) in 1915. Among the notables who resided here was Tyler Browne, a Lisbon selectman, Daniel Browne, state representative, and William Tyler Browne, a doctor who owned the only x-ray machine in the county and also an early car, a circa 1898 horseless carriage. He was also responsible for keeping those bones in the home. (Now I know what they mean when they say an old house has good bones!)
The Burnham Tavern
Up the road, a bit, still on Route 169, is the Burnham Tavern, a beautiful old home that the town purchased in 2012 and leased to the historical society (same set up as the Bishop House). This is in quite the state of disrepair, but the society is feverishly working on the home. Once restored, it will be a recreated tavern and has a large ballroom located inside it. (Public is not allowed inside yet.)
Built in 1755, the tavern sits on 129 acres and was used as a training ground for the local militia. For those interested in the paranormal, both homes have been investigated by a ghost hunting team.
The Bishop House Museum is an authentic slice of history. If you’re into exploring old homes, check it out. Marcia is a knowledgeable and personal guide who cares deeply for the town’s history. What was really cool about stepping into the museum was that it felt so authentic as if the Brownes or Bishops or Bradlaws were still living there today.
