Stumbling onto the unexpected is one of the pure joys of travel. The word unexpected sums up my recent backyard road trip to Biddeford, Maine. On my way up to Portland, I had wanted to stop for breakfast or lunch (I guess that’s called brunch) at Biscuits and Company in Biddeford. Unlike many of the towns south of Portland which I am familiar with, Biddeford was new to me.
On arriving in town, we parked in the municipal lot next to the police station, and my first reaction was quite frankly a bit of apprehension. Driving north on Route 111, the town looked tired. I fed the meter, giving us two hours, and walked up to my destination thinking to myself that I had wasted that extra dollar to pay for the second hour.
Biscuits and Company in Biddeford
Biscuits and Company was reminiscent of the first spring bloom, rising from the gloom of winter as it was a sign of life in what seemed like a forlorn section of town. Its sign and interior are tastefully designed. The focus of the menu is, hence the name, biscuits. My wife and I ordered breakfast sandwiches on biscuits and our son had a chocolate biscuit to munch on. As the bookends to the sandwich, the biscuit was crumbly but tasty. The decor of the restaurant, located in a commercial building downtown, was reminiscent of something found in Brooklyn.
Exploring Biddeford
In looking at the map, we noticed two breweries close to the restaurant and also knew that Biddeford and its sister city Saco’s economies were once based on their mills. So we decided to explore.
Walking farther north on Alfred Street, the mill came into view. Here was a branch of the Portland Pie Company, Banded Brewing, and Round Turn Distilling. Unfortunately, the two libation destinations were not yet open and we were too full from our brunch to have room for pizza.
As we bewilderedly staggered around the parking lot literally dragging our son (who was refusing to walk), a woman stopped us as she noticed that we were clearly struggling. Inquiring about our destination, I said that the Run of the Mill Public House was a place I wanted to see.
At first, she recommended driving there since the road was busy to walk on, but then she mentioned the Riverwalk.
Biddeford’s Pepperell Mill Complex
That was it; we decided that sounded fun. I hoisted my son on my shoulders, as there was no other way to budge him, and we traversed the perimeter of the factory building which was more similar to a fortress than a factory. It was huge and was the site of a former fort on the Saco River. As we turned the corner towards the Saco River, my jaw dropped when I saw the expansiveness of this factory complex. This was totally unexpected!
My three year old exclaimed, “This is awesome!!” A mill complex on such an unexpectedly grand scale surrounds the rushing Saco River. I figured there would be factories, but not like this. Outside of mill cities such as Lowell, Manchester, and Lawrence, this was one of the most extensive factory complexes I have ever seen.
Not only grand, but it was refurbished and thriving. Punctuated by a large smokestack and a pedestrian bridge over the Saco, this was no ordinary place.
And the mill complex continues…
It seemed that on the Biddeford side, much of the factory was renovated as mixed-use commercial and residential properties.
The official name is the Pepperell Mill Campus and, in addition to the businesses already mentioned, there are tons more, including the Maine Pie Company, Barn Fresh Classics, which buys, sells, and services classic cars, and Rabelais, a book store that only sells titles related to food, drink, gardening, and farming.
Crossing over the river to the Saco side via the pedestrian bridge, the mill property here, again of mixed-use, was another stunning addition to the complex, although it is not part of the Pepperell Mill Campus. From the bridge, the view upriver afforded glimpses of cascading waterfalls with more former factory buildings beyond. I later learned that both Dirigo Brewing Company and Stone Fort Distillery were housed here.
Run of the Mill Public House and Brewery
My son led us around the Saco side of the riverwalk. Eventually, we found the Run of the Mill Public House and Brewery. Clearly, it is in an old mill. Its decor emphasizes history and industry with big wooden signs and old photographs. I ordered a flight of beer and my son opted for chicken tenders and chocolate milk (he was already hungry).
Like sand in an hourglass, the ever-present ticking of the parking meter loomed (get it, loom, because we were in an old mill!) and we knew we had to get back to the car. Stopping to take a few photos, we hoofed it back to the lot just in time before the meter expired.
Biddeford Pool
Before we left town, we drove down Pool Street to get to the Biddeford Pool. The Pool is a large tidal pool that only has a small inlet to the bay. It is full of summer cottages with water access on all sides.
Driving north to Portland, we drove back through downtown Biddeford and into Saco. Past the Run of the Mill, the mills continue into Saco. From there, although we did not stop to explore, downtown Saco looked similar to its twin city, Biddeford. It seems though, that Saco has already undergone a renaissance.
Destination: Portland and Freeport
I truly love the adventure that is part of travel. Most of this Maine trip was to places that I had been to before but thoroughly enjoy, including the Portland Sea Dogs, Maine Beer Company, Bissell Brothers Brewery, LL Bean in Freeport, and the Portland Children’s Museum. Those were all spectacular, but Biddeford was a surprise. I figured we’d stop in town, have a quick bite to eat and go on to Portland, not spend a good chunk of the afternoon exploring the mill city. Between Biddeford and Definitive Brewing Company in Portland, which we just stumbled upon, some of the best destinations of this trip were unplanned.
On the outset, Biddeford looked tired and underwhelming, but with a little exploring, we discovered the past is alive in the present with plenty to see and do.
For more Backyard Road Trips involving beer click here or here or here
