Newport, Rhode Island, is the quintessential New England seaside destination. In my early days, I would head to this opulent paradise by the sea any chance I could get. With kids, though, even at only less than an hour and a half away, Newport makes a difficult day trip. Hence, my wife and I decided to head to Rhode Island ourselves for a weekend in Newport.
Blithewold
Without kids in tow, we were able to meander our way to Newport. Our first stop was the mansion Blithewold, in Bristol. The late 19th-century mansion of the Van Wickle family (and then McKee and finally, Marjorie Lyon), is a sight to behold. Not only is the building itself spectacular, but so are the gardens.
For our visit, we purchased tickets for the gardens and meandered through the grounds. Blithewold will be detailed further in a backyard garden trip. The grounds are simply stunning. There are gardens to amble into, an expansive lawn overlooking Narragansett Bay, and an actual Sequoia! Make sure to visit the water garden and bamboo grove too.
The Jailhouse Inn
After exploring the grounds at Blithewold, we drove to Newport to check into our accommodations at the Jailhouse Inn. Literally housed in a former police station and jail, this inn has many features from its former use. Names for rooms include “Solitary Confinement.” We booked a suite on the third floor. It afforded plenty of room, and we just used the second room for our luggage. The room was comfortable and spacious. And also while watching the Red Sox game on TV I saw an Attorney Rob Levine television commercial!
Perro Salado
We booked a late dinner at Perro Salado, a Mexican restaurant housed in a colonial home. Hands down, this was one of the tastiest Mexican meals I have ever eaten. We started with the guacamole for the table. The portions were huge and the guacamole was chunky, easily scoopable with the warm chips it was served with. For the main courses, my wife chose the steak quesadilla and I opted for the shrimp tostada. Both were absolutely fantastic; it was a toss-up which was the better meal. With its location in an old home, the rooms could only fit a few tables, making for an intimate dining experience by candlelight. There is also patio dining available outside.
Cliff Walk and the Newport Mansions
The ultimate attraction in Newport is the Gilded Age mansions in the neighborhood of Bellevue Avenue. Many of these immense estates are now tourable museums including the Breakers, the Elms, and Rosecliff. Driving or walking on Bellevue Avenue, many of the mansions are viewable from the street. From the back though via the Cliff Walk, some can be witnessed from their oceanside backyards.
Park along one of the roads adjacent to Bellevue that leads to the coast, a road such as Narragansett Avenue. At the intersection of the Cliff Walk and Narragansett, the first attraction you come to is the 40 Steps, a staircase down to the sea.
On the Cliff Walk
We started off in the first direction, toward Memorial Boulevard and Easton’s Beach. Despite the many times I have walked here, I had never been in this direction. It was much shorter, but of course pretty. Then we doubled back, past our point of origin. Skimming the perimeter of the back, Ochre Court, the Breakers, the Marble House, Rosecliff, and Beechwood can all be seen.
This is a popular seaside walkway, with good reason: dramatic views of the ocean from atop the Newport cliffs on one side and mansion views on the other. Reaching the Chinese Tea House, we turned around and headed back toward our car. Near the farther end of the Cliff Walk, the terrain varies, with walks to step on and tunnels to go through. The path is more manageable for walkers of any ability closer to the intersection with Narragansett Avenue.
Ocean Avenue/Del’s Lemonade
Continue on Bellevue Avenue until it ends and follow signs for Ocean Avenue. The coastal route continues on Ocean Avenue. The road winds past private beaches and opulent homes, maybe not on the level as the Gilded Age mansions but incredibly elaborate estates nonetheless.
Brenton Point State Park is the first opportunity for regular folk to enjoy this part of the Newport coastline. Parking here gives access to tremendous seaside views, an expansive lawn known for kite flying, and the ability to get up close to the ocean.
Often parked here in warmer months is a Del’s Lemonade truck. Del’s is a Rhode Island institution. It is frozen lemonade and, for some reason, ridiculously tasty. The trucks are found throughout the Ocean State at places such as Roger Williams Zoo, downtown Providence, and other tourist sites. The difference between Del’s and its competitors is that it is not overly sweet; the lemon taste permeates through.
Fort Adams State Park
Ocean Ave will run into Ridge Road. Take Ridge Road to Fort Adams. Best known as the location of the much-heralded Newport Folk and Jazz Festivals, even when the music’s not playing it is a worthy stop (and so much less crowded during non-festival time). Included here is a small museum and a fort that can be walked around. (The fort is literally the location of the concerts too). There are sweeping views of Narragansett Bay from the state park. Often a Del’s truck can also be found here. The current fort dates from 1824 with the first fortification erected here in 1799.
The Grill at 41 Degrees North
For dinner, we splurged at the high end 41 Degrees North. The restaurant is located at the hotel of the same name. For my entree, I chose squid ink spaghetti. I am a sucker for seafood over pasta. This meal was just that, except the pasta was black, dyed with squid ink. Loaded with crab, calamari, and shrimp. It was decadent and delicious. For dessert, my wife and I split the chocolate ganache s’mores cake. It was made with graham crackers, toasted fluff, and caramel. Talk about an indulgence, we savored every bite!
Wave with Feet sculpture
To keep with tradition, whenever we visit a state, town, or city in which a “Goodnight” book is written about, we buy it for the kids, which is why we had to purchase Goodnight Newport. On one of the pages was something I did not recognize, a sculpture of a wave with feet sticking out. On our way back to the hotel from the restaurant, we found said sculpture where Memorial Boulevard meets Thames Street. For all of my trips to Newport, I had never seen this.
A Weekend in Newport
My weekend in Newport came to an end after heading back to the Jailhouse Inn. The next morning was the only time we saw rain. Our weekend in Newport was a success. The lodging was comfortable, with a great location near everything downtown. We ate very well at the Grill at 41 Degrees North and Perro Salado, enjoyed sightseeing on the Cliff Walk and Ocean Avenue, ducked in and out of boutiques, and felt refreshed after three different Del’s Lemonade stops.
If you liked “A Weekend in Newport”, for more fun weekends away, read “A Weekend in New Jersey“, “An Afternoon in Bristol” and “A Weekend in Tucson“.
