“You’re telling me there’s an abandoned prison that looks like a fortress, is located in the middle of Philly, and gives tours?” I asked my cousin Emmi. When she told me about Eastern State Penitentiary I knew I just had to go. Combining my love for urban exploration and history under one roof, I had to get there this summer.
Earlier this August, I got my chance. Quite honestly, it was even better than I could imagine. With a guided audio tour, hours of exploring on our own, and a beer garden in the middle, my visit to Eastern State Penitentiary is easily a favorite event of the summer.
Eastern State rises above its surrounding neighborhood of Fairmount. When it was initially built in 1829, what is now Fairmount was once countryside. Today’s juxtaposition of a hip and lively neighborhood with this turreted behemoth located nonchalantly on Fairmount Avenue is quite surprising. Eastern State Penitentiary’s architecture is intimidating. Towers and a true castle-like feel must have been foreboding to see when it was in use.
Our Night Tour Begins
Emmi set us up with tickets in advance for the night tour. Our entry time was 6:30, so I doubted we’d actually be in there during the nighttime. Boy was I wrong when we exited three and a half hours later!
After scanning our tickets, we headed into the prison to receive our audio guide. Signs with numbers make it easy to follow the audio tour. Putting on the headphones, we heard truly the best guide possible narrating this tour: Steve Buscemi! Buscemi’s narration is absolutely perfect. The audio guide provides details into the history of Eastern State, the prison system in general, prisoners, and Philadelphia.
Eastern State Penitentiary is in the same state of disrepair as many of the institutions I used to explore when I was younger, the difference being the parts open to the public are structurally secure. It is considered a preserved ruin, as the restoration work is not to bring it to livable standards but instead securing its dilapidated state for posterity.
The audio tour led us through different wards. It showed various cells and through the audio component, we understood how the conditions changed over the years. What was fascinating to me was the idea of the penitentiary. The idea was not meant to be penal as much as it was to rehabilitate the prisoner. They would serve a penance; “penitentiary” derives from the Latin word for “repentance.” This was in direct contrast to the New York system of prisons, such as Sing Sing, with shared cells with an emphasis on punishment.
Inside the Wards
The original solitary cells contained a yard where prisoners would be able to be in an enclosed outdoor portion of their cell for an hour each day. There was also a skylight in these cells. As the years pushed forward, these outdoor “runs” were closed in. In later years, prisoners did have their own toilets and running water in the cells.
After leading us through various wards, cells, and corridors, the audio portion of the tour came to an end. But we certainly were not done with our visit to Eastern State Penitentiary!
Exiting into a former rec yard, there was an exhibit about the current state of American prisons, a gift shop, and a beer garden. After refueling at the beer garden, the exploration continued.
Triple Bottom Beer Garden
Philly’s Triple Bottom Brewery hosts the beer garden. I had never had their stuff, but Emmi was a fan. I enjoyed my IPA and Emmi and Jackie their pale ales. Lingering a while over our beers sitting at a picnic table in the midst of a prison rec yard was a surreal experience. As the time ticked, dusk settled in and the night sky prevailed. Now sitting at a picnic table under strings of lights under a pitch-black sky in the prison yard was even wilder!
Finishing our beer, we roamed the grounds for an hour and a half more. The rest of the prison that is accessible consists of different wards, corridors, and cells. We also stumbled upon the synagogue, death row, and a highlight for most visitors, Al Capone’s cell.
Time to Explore
For this portion of the exploration since it wasn’t quite a tour anymore, numbered audio stops still guide you. This part of the tour is narrated by former workers, inmates, and historians. There are exhibits in the halls. Art installations are also located in the halls and in cells, some of which are quite moving. One installation includes notes that current prisoners from around the country send, stating one thing they would like to see again. It’s amazing what we take for granted on the outside.
Looking up from the middle of the campus, the watchtower beacon still revolves like a lost lighthouse. The fact of roaming the halls and corridors of the prison on our own in the evening was exhilarating, especially with the searchlight circling. Using only our map, we made our way around, seeing most of the sights.
Tucked in an alleyway is the entrance to the synagogue which is currently restored to what it looked like in the mid-20th century. Included here is a museum room with information regarding the history of its Jewish inmates. Especially creepy is Death Row. Although no actual executions took place at Eastern State Penitentiary, inmates were shuttled to other Pennsylvania locations for their final days. Still, this Death Row included a single shower and small cells. Al Capone’s cell was located close to the front of the prison and was furnished lavishly compared to others’ stark settings. This is a presumed re-creation based on a newspaper article and could be untrue.
When You Go to Eastern State Penitentiary
The tour of Eastern State Penitentiary at night is the perfect mix of history, architecture, and exploration with a bit of eeriness thrown in. This tour is perfect for almost anyone but be warned, the prison is in a semi-ruinous state. For those with mobility concerns, it may prove difficult, especially the nighttime tour. Around Halloween, Terror Behind the Walls turns Eastern State into a haunted house attraction.
Eastern State is located at 2207 Fairmount Avenue in the Fairmount neighborhood of Philadelphia. It was in use from 1829 to 1971 and most emphatically worth a visit!
For more ruins check out these Backyard Road Trips adventures: Castles in Connecticut, In Search of the Stanley Mansion, and Seaside State Park.
Thanks for sharing this one! I have always wanted to go to Eastern State Penitentiary, I’d love to see how it compares to Alcatraz which does NOT have a beer garden in the center!
I was only at Alcatraz as a child (when I was really acting up) so it was hard to recall. This had lots of freedom to explore which I loved.