A Weekend in the Capital Region of Vermont

Although I seek to take adventures in places that are new to me, one state that I return to time and time again is the great state of Vermont. I often head to my favorite towns of Stowe or Woodstock. Although not far from either, for my recent trip to the Green Mountain State, I chose to stay in Montpelier. My weekend in the Capital Region of Vermont brought me to new fantastic sites but also was close enough that I was able to return to some favorite locations.

Driving from eastern Massachusetts, I headed north on Interstate 93 and then took Interstate 89 from New Hampshire into Vermont. Exiting the highway just before the Vermont border, my first stop was in the town of Cornish, New Hampshire, to visit the exquisite Saint-Gaudens National Historical Park. I won’t be elaborating about this part of the trip since there is a separate Backyard Road Trip about it.

Windsor, Vermont

Leaving Cornish, we headed south on Route 12A crossing the Connecticut River into Vermont by traveling on the Cornish-Windsor Covered Bridge. This was until 2008 the longest covered bridge still in existence. Pulling onto the bridge from the Cornish side, what struck me first was the wooden sign, “Walk horses or pay a $2 fine.” I made sure to disembark my horse before crossing into Vermont!

Harpoon Brewery and SILO Distillery

On the Vermont side of the Connecticut River, we traveled north on Route 5 through Windsor. Windsor is a small village, but for Vermont, it seems like a small city! North of the downtown is a commercial area that includes an outlet of Simon Pearce, the Harpoon Brewery, and the SILO Distillery. Watching the live glass blowing at Simon Pearce was unavailable due to Covid.

Harpoon has been a favorite lunch stop for me over the last few years. From poutine to pretzel bites, I’ve been quite happy with my food choices. Throw in a flight of beer and I find it a perfect way to ease into my Vermont vacation. On this day, the brewery was packed! Luckily we found a picnic table outside which gave us access to the wood-fired pizza oven outside. Splitting a cheese pizza was a perfect lunch. I ordered a Catamount IPA (prior to Harpoon’s arrival in Vermont, this was the location of the former Catamount Brew Pub), while my wife chose a Berliner Weiss.

Since clearly, I was on vacation, we even stopped at the distillery across the parking lot. At SILO Distilling, both of us ordered mixed drinks that we sipped outside. Unseasonably cold for June, I actually had to purchase a Harpoon sweatshirt which I practically lived in for the whole weekend! Due to Covid restrictions, there was only outdoor seating which was fine for us. We both enjoyed our drinks and then we were on our way to Montpelier, the heart of the Capital Region of Vermont.

Montpelier- the heart of the Capital Region of Vermont

Montpelier is the capital of Vermont. Although not a large city, it does have a vibrant downtown. It mixes the bohemian, with an arts college in town, and record stores and hipster boutiques with the political set of the nearby state capitol. Route 12 bisects downtown as Main Street. State and Court Streets are perpendicular to Main which creates the small downtown. Montpelier is quaint and funky at the same time. Montpelier is where the north branch of the Winooski River flows into the main Winooski River, leaving a pathway of waterways through the city. 

The Inn at Montpelier

For our lodging, we booked two nights at the Inn at Montpelier. This old inn dates from 200 years ago. Our room was spacious and located in the house across the parking lot from the main inn. The yellow facade of the inn is inn-viting with a large wraparound porch. The room was comfortable and included a private porch. 

Black Aggie

Forever the folklorist, I had heard the tales of Black Aggie, a haunted statue, located in Greenmount Cemetery in Montpelier. Passing through the main gate of the cemetery, this statue is quite easy to spot. Its weathered copper design is striking. A statue of Thanatos, a Greek personification of death, presides over the expansive grave of prominent Montpelierite John E. Hubbard. Hubbard, who has both a large town park and library somewhat named after him, was a bit devious. Money left to the city by his aunt never reached the city; instead, he pocketed it. Then when he died, the remainder of the funds were given to Montpelier. The credit goes to him when in actuality it should be his aunt who deserves the acknowledgment of helping build the civic structure of Montpelier. 

Never mind who he was in life, it’s his grave that has lived on for posterity. Legend has it that sitting on the statue’s lap at midnight and saying the words “Black Aggie” three times will lead to either immediate death, bad luck, or death soon after. The actual statue story seems to be having a bit of a latitude problem though. The actual “Black Aggie” was an unlicensed copy of Saint-Gaudens’ Grief located in Baltimore. The tale associated with this replica somehow migrated north to Hubbard’s statue in Montpelier. (Granted though this statue of Thanatos is also quite eerie, I’d still give the nod to Grief though,)

An Old Flame

Continuing our unearthly theme, an odd occurrence in Montpelier happened to us that evening. Heading off the highway at Exit 8 toward the city, we spotted fire billowing out of a tower. Trying to locate the source of the inferno, we explored the streets of Dog River Road, Junction Road, and State Street. Ironically, when looking for this, we again passed by Black Aggie! It was a bit creepy searching these dark and, at times, wooded roads. Catching only glimpses of the fire, we were thrown off to where it really was. In the end, I believe it came from a standalone pipe at the wastewater treatment facility on Dog River Road. And then I found this article online after much searching which helped me feel sane! 

North Branch Cascades Trail

Driving north from Montpelier on Route 12, our first stop was the North Branch Cascades Trail. This gently sloping path parallels the north branch of the Winooski. Small cascades dip and flow over rocks, creating a serene scene. Steeper drops can take you close to the river. The path is manageable for practically any age group. Usually driving Route 100, this section of Route 12 was new to me but also very pretty. 

In Morrisville, the major routes of 12, 15, and 100 all meet to form a junction. This is actually the northern terminus of Route 12 which, if I really wanted to, I could travel all the way back to my hometown of Norwich, Connecticut, and even farther, to the town of Groton, Connecticut, where it ends. 

Rock Art Brewery

Morrisville has two great breweries, Rock Art and Lost Nation. On this trip, we decided to pay a visit to Rock Art. Rock Art is one of those classic Vermont breweries. I remember when their beers had ABVs of 8, 9, and 10%, and the labels were branded with the word “extreme.” For more than 20 years, Rock Art has been making quality beverages that can only be found in the Green Mountain State.

Their brewery in Morrisville is comfortable. It has indoor seating, both upstairs and downstairs, as well as tables on the porch. We chose to sit on the porch where we split a flight. Each beer was tasty and the setting was perfect. I also picked up a four-pack of their Gruit to bring home for my dad. 

Stowe

From Morrisville, we traveled south on Route 100 to Stowe. Stowe never disappoints. Truthfully it’s about as close to a home away from home that I have. We typically venture up here at least once a year. Our visit here consisted of a small walk on the rec path, a pretty hike in the woods, and dinner at Doc Ponds. 

Doc Ponds

Doc Ponds is owned by the same team that runs the much-lauded Hen of the Wood restaurant in Waterbury. Doc Ponds is prototypical Vermont. Awesome beer selection (I had a Hill Farmstead, Jackie had a von Trapp) and amazing food. We split a few dishes here, including calamari which isn’t fried and is so tasty. We had a fresh salad with house dressing and both ordered a smash burger. Everything was absolutely perfect.

Cold Hollow Cider Mill

Of course, in Waterbury, we had to stop at Cold Hollow Cider Mill. Yes, this place is touristy but I just love it. I’ve been literally coming here since 1990. The interior engulfs you with the smells of apple cider and baked goods. Pick up a few Vermont-made products, sample some apple cider, and take home a pint, with fresh cider donuts.

Smugglers’ Notch Distillery

Just down Route 100 from Cold Hollow is a shopping plaza with the Cabot Cheese Annex which was unfortunately closed due to Covid. It also has stores of Danforth Pewter and Lake Champlain Chocolates. For the first time here, we stopped into the Smugglers’ Notch Distillery. The actual distillery is in Smugglers’ Notch, just northeast of Stowe, but this is a store of theirs. We sampled a few types of liquor, and I took home a make your own Mule, as in Moscow Mule. It came with Smugglers’ Notch vodka and ginger beer to make your own cocktail at home.

Barr Hill Distillery

Back in Montpelier, for our third distillery, we checked out Barr Hill Distillery. My wife recognized the name from a hand sanitizer she has! This place was gorgeous. Located on the edge of town, it is expansive with indoor and outdoor seating. Reservations were needed in advance and, as the day was winding down, we just wanted to check it out and pick something up anyway. Inside the distillery, I ordered a pre-made gin and tonic, concocted with their own gin. (It was delish.) The interior was tastefully decorated and they even served Foam beer on draft and to go. 

As with all of our fantastic Vermont adventures, a weekend in the Capital Region of Vermont was the best way to welcome summer. From hiking to craft beer, relaxing at the inn to going out to eat, the Capital Region should be your next vacation destination!