Gloucester is known for the Gorton fisherman, A Perfect Storm, and the greasy pole contest. Mostly, it’s synonymous with the sea whether for fishing, whale watching, or beach-going. Well, this afternoon in Gloucester has nothing to do with the beach. It’s all about buying records, exploring an abandoned village, and a castle.
Mystery Train Records
For the last few years, as the ability to buy physical records and CDs has come to a standstill, I have relished taking a semi-annual trip to Gloucester to raid the stacks of Mystery Train. This place is quite honestly a used music Mecca. Vinyl, CDs, tapes, 8-tracks, DVDs, pick your poison. Although the albums are in alphabetical order, recent acquisitions make up their own section. Other random CDs are strewn beneath things, on top of things, seemingly everywhere! (Yes, I still buy CDs.)
Goodbye to high prices, most used CDs are around 5 bucks. There is also a free section as well as a humongous dollar section. And there is certainly no garbage in these areas. For instance, I basically found the complete U2 discography in the dollar bin. New vinyl and bootlegs are the only pricey items.
During my latest visit, my purchases included George Winston’s Autumn, which of course I already own on CD, but felt I needed on vinyl; ZZ Top’s Greatest Hits, after a recent Arizona trip quoting the bearded fellows; and Stevie Wonder’s Songs in the Key of Life among a dozen or so other albums from jazz to hard rock. (My buddy Dave, whom I went with, purchased about twice as many as me. Granted, I did throw about five albums from the dollar bin his way).
Dogtown
Two years ago, Dave took me to try and find Dogtown, an abandoned colonial village in the woods of Gloucester/Rockport. We got horribly lost, never found any of the sites, and got soaked in a torrential thunderstorm when we were about two miles deep. After, with the AC blasting at Mystery Train, our teeth chattered for our two-hour stay at the record store.
Dave has visited Dogtown since our ill-fated trip, so this time he was able to show me all of the sights. The Dogtown settlement originated in 1693. Some say the name “Dogtown” derived from dogs that were prevalent in town and owned by women whose husbands were away fighting in the American Revolution. Another speculation is that the name refers to the feral dogs that roamed the grounds when their owners passed on.
Dogtown reached its population peak in the mid 18th century as 100 families called this village home. Dogtown had a town square. The square is currently delineated and so are the home plots of the former houses. As the village declined, the land became known for its outcasts, derelicts, and witches allegedly taking residence here. In 1845, the last building in Dogtown was razed.
Village of Ill Repute
In modern times, Dogtown has earned its reputation. It was the inspiration for artist Marsden Hartley’s painting Whale’s Jaw of a rock formation reminiscent of a whale’s jaw which since has split apart. Unfortunately, in the 1980s, Dogtown was the location of a murder.
Dogtown is best known for its giant boulders, which not only are tangible evidence of how hard it was to farm this land, but in the 1930s, philanthropist Roger Babson employed workers to carve inspirational sayings into the boulders of Dogtown. Phrases such as “Help Mother,” “If Work Stops, Values Decay,” and “Be Clean” adorn boulders of all sizes within Dogtown. Known as the Babson Boulders, there is a map to help search for the boulder route.
The primary entrance for Dogtown is on Dogtown Road, a now dead end that was the primary thoroughfare of the village. Look for the sign that says “Dogtown Common” on Cherry Street in Gloucester. After parking, follow the main trail past the gate, by the sandpit, and soon you’ll come to the numbered house plots. Afterward, the Babson Boulder Trail veers right. Other sites such as Whale’s Jaw are on various trails. I’ve parked, when coming in on Dory Road, at the trailhead parking at the school administration building. Though this is by far more difficult to trace.
Ravenswood Park
A parcel of land owned by the Trustees, Ravenswood Park in Gloucester is not far from the downtown. It has trails through the property and can be pretty to visit in any season. During the winter it is a popular spot for cross country skiing. It’s also rocky, just without the same eerie undertones as Dogtown.
Hammond Castle
Clearly, Gloucester isn’t like most towns, with its mysterious village, tales of the sea, and a castle all within its city lines. Located on Hesperus Avenue overlooking the ocean is the looming castle, constructed in 1925 by eccentric inventor John Hays Hammond Jr, known for his work with radio control. Hammond’s castle, with its medieval-style interior, is available for tours. The castle is divided into four architectural sections: his laboratory, castle, cathedral, and chateau. One highlight is the courtyard featuring a pool in the middle. The castle is worth a visit! (Excuse the pictures, I can’t find the ones I took from the exterior or interior)
Clearly, Gloucester is ripe for exploration. This afternoon in Gloucester features some of my favorites spots to visit in the small city. Of course, there is plenty more to explore including plenty of coastline, restaurants, and the small artist colony of Rocky Neck.
