Fenway Park’s tagline is “America’s Best Loved Ballpark” with good reason. Each facet of the stadium, from its history and its architecture to the overall experience, makes it a must-see for every baseball fan. The Red Sox, along with other storied franchises such as the New York Yankees and Chicago Cubs, have a vibrant past. As the sport of baseball matured, these teams grew up as well. Fenway is a park that can be visualized through a lifetime of pictures even before actually seeing it in person. Its brick façade with its championship flags hang proudly over Yawkey Way. The park is accentuated by massive light posts. Its interior is a mix of blue, red, and green. The Fenway green is so distinct that many associate that shade only with the park itself.
The 20th Century
The franchise began in 1901 as the Boston Americans, a name that would change before the 1908 season. The Red Sox played their first game, an exhibition between the Red Sox and Harvard, at Fenway Park on April 9, 1912. The first professional game was played on April 20th of that year. Since 1901, they had played at the Huntington Avenue Grounds. They won the World Series in 1903 at Huntington Avenue. Each title thereafter occurred at Fenway Park. (1912, 1915, 1916, 1918, 2004, 2007, 2013, 2018).
Fenway is known for its left-field wall, the Green Monster. Built in 1934, this eventually replaced the left-field bleachers which were destroyed by fires in 1926. The wall was covered with advertisements until 1947 when it was painted green to match the rest of Fenway. As you look around Fenway, the looming light towers leave an indelible mark. These were constructed in 1947 to allow night baseball. As the 20th century continued, renovations were steadily made throughout the ballpark.
Due to its relatively diminutive size, compared to modern stadiums, as well as much needed upgrades, its fate hung in the balance. In the late 1990s, there was a major push to tear down Fenway. The plan was for it to be replaced by a new contemporary ballpark based on the original park’s design. Happily, that campaign felt push-back by the “Save Fenway Park” counter-campaign. When John Henry, Larry Lucchino, and Tom Werner bought the Red Sox in 2002, they vowed to keep the jewel-box stadium, albeit with renovations and modernizations.
“The Curse of the Bambino”
In the early years of the 20th century, the Red Sox created a dynasty. They had won five World Series titles in eighteen years. After their win in 1918, the Red Sox did not win another World Series until 2004. During this period of 86 years, their bitter rivals, the New York Yankees, were to be the most successful team in major league baseball. Owner Harry Frazee sold star player Babe Ruth to the Yankees in December of 1919. A rumor spread that the deal was to finance the Broadway play “No, No, Nanette.”
Although the exact reasons were unclear, his selling of The Babe created for Red Sox fans the “Curse of the Bambino.” During this 86 year championship drought, the Red Sox came extremely close to winning it all on more than one occasion, only to have their luck run out. In 1946, the Red Sox were facing the St. Louis Cardinals in the World Series but lost the final game. In 1967, they faced the Cardinals once again but lost in the seventh game of the series. In 1975, the Red Sox faced the Cincinnati Reds in the Series. It was memorable for Carlton Fisk’s body language, urging the home run ball to stay fair. They would lose the series in Game 7 though.
Years of Woe to Years of Glory
Three of the more “cursed” events for the Red Sox happened in the later years of the 20th century. In 1978, facing the Yankees in a one-game playoff for the American League championship, the Yankees’ Bucky Dent, a shortstop known mainly for his glove, hit a three-run home run which turned the tide of the game. Another mystifying case for Red Sox fans occurred in 1986. In Game 6 of the World Series, the Red Sox had taken a five to three lead, two outs on the scoreboard when Mets’ outfielder Mookie Wilson hit a routine ground ball to first baseman Bill Buckner, only to have the ball scoot through his legs. The Mets would win the game and go on to win the Series.
Finally, in 2003, in the American League Championship Series against the Yankees, after starter Pedro Martinez had been left in the game too long, in the eleventh inning Tim Wakefield, pitching in relief for the Red Sox, gave up a home run to Yankees’ bench player, Aaron Boone. The curse was reversed in 2004. The Red Sox toppled the Yankees in a legendary comeback after being down three games to none in the ALCS. They ended their season ceremoniously with a romp of the Cardinals in the World Series.
The Red Sox have had some of the greatest players in the history of the game don the “B” on their cap. The list includes the likes of Ted Williams, Babe Ruth, Cy Young, Carl Yastrzemski, Pedro Martinez, and Jim Rice. Additionally, the Red Sox coaching staff and front office have helped steer the ship with leaders such as Terry Francona, Theo Epstein, and John Harrington.
Ballpark Amenities:
Food
Certainly, Fenway franks, popcorn, and crackerjacks can all be found, but more options abound. The local chain Tasty Burger provides the hamburgers in the ballpark which are at various locations on the concourse. The burgers are quite good. They can be enjoyed while watching the game in person or in front of one of the many flat screens that adorn the walls nearby. The smell of sausage wafts through the ballpark from vendors both inside and outside the park. Other unusual culinary options include sushi, clam chowder (from Boston’s beloved Legal Seafood restaurant), and burritos. Some craft beer is available, including Harpoon and Smuttynose, but it takes a bit of searching; most vendors sell typical Budweiser products. There are also bars serving mixed drinks throughout.
Ballpark Extras
Before even entering the stadium, Jersey Street is closed off to automobile traffic and features a carnival-like atmosphere. Stilt walkers, a brass band, and championship flags greet the visitor. This is also where the largest shop of Red Sox memorabilia is situated. So are outdoor food vendors, including former Sox pitcher, Luis Tiant’s El Tiante whose cuisine includes Cuban sandwiches. The Green Monster giveth and taketh away many a home run. That is one of the first features that fans are excited to see when entering the ballpark. Another well-known feature is the Citgo Sign, which rises above the Green Monster. It is actually located on the rooftop of a nearby building. Atop the Green Monster are seats which are some of the most highly coveted in the park.
Tributes to Red Sox Heroes
Pesky’s Pole, the name of the right-field foul pole, is named for Red Sox legend Johnny Pesky. Hall-of-Famer Carlton Fisk’s World Series game-winning home run ball ricocheted off the right-field foul pole. The pole is now named the Fisk Pole in his honor. Statues greet the passerby at the rear of the park and include those of Ted Williams and Carl Yastrzemski. The Teammates statue features the teammates of Williams: Bobby Doerr, Dom DiMaggio, and Johnny Pesky. Red Sox Hall of Famers are honored with a plaque at Fenway. In the bleachers, keep an eye out for the sole red seat. It marks the landing of Ted Williams’s 502 foot 1948 home run.
For the Kids
Wally the Green Monster is the Red Sox mascot. Kids will enjoy seeing him at the game as well as his kid sister, Tessie. Wally is named for the Green Monster left-field wall. Tessie is named for the song popularized by the rabid Red Sox fans the Royal Rooters in the early 20th century. The song then became a modern-day Boston anthem as it was covered and updated by the local Celtic punk band the Dropkick Murphys. Along with the typical singing of “Take Me out to the Ballgame” during the seventh-inning stretch, Red Sox fans sing along to “Sweet Caroline” by Neil Diamond at the intermission of the eighth inning.
Insider’s Tips
Although quaint by modern ballpark standards, Fenway’s old-world charm lacks certain amenities that other stadiums offer easily. First and foremost, getting tickets at Fenway can be difficult. This is due to the continued success of the team and the park’s small size. Many games are quickly sold out through Redsox.com. Tickets have to be purchased through third-party sellers such as Ace Ticket or Stub Hub. Don’t chance getting tickets on the day of the game.
Another feature that Fenway lacks is parking. The privately-owned parking lots close to the stadium cost between $40 and $50. Public transit is a good option. The commuter rail from the Worcester line’s station is directly across from Fenway. Also, the Park is accessible via Green Line subway from either Kenmore or Fenway (only on the D branch.) The subway trains are a zoo after the ballgame, but the option is much more cost-effective. Many fans from out of town park in lots at stations such as Riverside in Newton or in Braintree for only a few dollars. *Parking tip–for Sunday games, find a parking meter in nearby Brookline where there is no charge on Sunday only.
Fenway Park Intricacies
Fenway also offers “obstructed view” seating which means the view may be partially blocked by a pole. Warning for these seats is given on the tickets (and are typically cheaper). In spite of the renovations and attempts to modernize the ballpark in recent years, the bleachers are still cramped and the concourse is a racetrack. In a bygone era, Fenway’s bleachers were of ill repute. Today these seats, just like all the others in the park, are highly coveted and family-friendly. Fenway’s hominess does come with a price for comfort and accessibility. No matter though, it is a pilgrimage that every baseball fan must make at least once in their lives.
Area Restaurants
Fenway Park is flanked on all sides (Jersey Street, Brookline Avenue, and Landsdowne Street) with dining and nightlife options. Only a block away from the park is Boylston Street. Over the past ten years, it has transformed itself from a nondescript strip of parking lots and fast-food restaurants to one of the city’s “it” spots with many dining options. Brookline Avenue has been recently renovated with pre or post-game chain dining and drinking establishments. These include Yard House, Trillium (technically Park Drive), and Bar Louie. Closer to the park is the venerable Boston Beer Works, the first of a small area chain of brewpubs.
Cask ‘N Flagon is a veritable Fenway area institution and will assuredly be packed on game day. Try to elbow through to get a drink or a burger if you can find a seating option.
A few steps further
A few blocks away from Fenway Park on nearby Beacon Street is Audubon. The restaurant is not as busy as those closer to Fenway and is a fine option for upscale pub food. Think burgers and sandwiches along with a tastefully chosen craft beer selection.
Island Creek Oyster Bar is a good spot for a nearby upscale seafood restaurant. It is the namesake restaurant of the Duxbury, Massachusetts, oyster farm, Island Creek Oysters. Their menu features succulent bivalves, lobster rolls, and fried clams.
Stop into the Bleacher Bar, located on Lansdowne Street, underneath the outfield bleachers, but accessible only from the sidewalk. The food here is typical pub fare done well, but the real attraction is the view into the park. During game time the bar gets understandably packed. Try and snag a seat or standing room to catch a glimpse of the game. Lansdowne also has mainstays Bill’s Bar, House of Blues, Lansdowne Pub, Loretta’s Last Call, and the brewpub Cheeky Monkey Brewing Company.
Area Hotels
Closest to the ballpark are Hotel Commonwealth in Kenmore Square and the recently renovated Verb Hotel on Boylston Street. City hotels are expensive, and these two are no exception. More reasonable hotels can be found outside the city limits, along with popular chains on major roads such as Route 9 and Route 1.
Nearby Attractions
Boston itself is an attraction with its splendid architecture, unparalleled history, and world-class restaurants. Visitors should not miss the Freedom Trail. It begins at the Boston Common and finishes in Charlestown at the Bunker Hill Monument. It packs all of Boston’s top historical sites into a two and half mile walk. The trail is marked by a red-painted or red-bricked stripe on the ground. For an overview, follow the trail and read the markers which provide information on each location. For a more thorough visit, step inside stops on the tour which include the Granary Burying Ground, Old North Church, and Paul Revere House. The trail is free, but certain stops on the trail charge admission.
Another fun way to see the city is via the Boston Duck Tour. Climb aboard the World War II amphibious vehicle which tours the city by road. It then splashes down into the Charles River for the last leg of the trip. The vessel converts from land vehicle to watercraft. The team rides on the iconic Duck Boats in World Series parade celebrations. Another Boston must-see is the Museum of Fine Arts. It is one of the country’s premier art museums that features the works of Monet, Cezanne, and Renoir. It also contains extensive collections of Egyptian artifacts and works from around the world. Shopping enthusiasts will love high fashion Newbury Street.
Famous Alumni
Babe Ruth, Cy Young, Ted Williams, Carl Yastrzemski, Carlton Fisk, Pedro Martinez, Wade Boggs, Johnny Pesky, Jim Rice, David Ortiz, Manny Ramirez, Roger Clemens, Jimmy Foxx, Harry Hooper, Tris Speaker, Dutch Leonard, Bill Lee, Ellis Burks, Dwight Evans, Mookie Betts
Did You Know?
In the 1915 and 1916 World Series, the Red Sox utilized nearby Braves Field (home of the Boston Braves) as their home field due to the increased capacity at this ballpark. Conversely, the Braves won their World Series title in 1914 at Fenway Park before the construction of the Braves Field. Braves Field can be seen in partiality today at Boston University’s Nickerson Field.
Recently, Fenway has been used as a concert venue for headline performers, including Bruce Springsteen, Jimmy Buffett, and Billy Joel. Throughout its history, Fenway has seen much more than baseball. Fenway has provided the location for a place of worship, an elephant show, field days, including one attended by President Theodore Roosevelt, a military march, and charity events.
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