In researching and writing my two Connecticut Lore books, the Tory Den in Burlington, Connecticut, was always on my shortlist but never made it into print. Given its proximity, a mile or so from the nearest parking lot, I never had enough time to dedicate to its exploration while in the western part of the state. Finally the kids were with my parents, so my wife and I had a few hours to locate the Tory Den.
The Tory Den earned its name during the Revolutionary War years. A Tory is someone who remained loyal to the crown and did not believe in the Patriot cause. At times, the rift between the two groups became violent or even deadly. The Chippeny region, which consists of the northwestern parcel of Bristol, as well as nearby Harwinton, Burlington, and Plymouth (Terryville) today, was known for a sizable Tory population. This didn’t sit well with the local patriots who at times would actively seek out these folks they thought were traitors. The leader of the Tory group was a man named Stephen Graves.
In 2020, this region is densely forested. Although much of the land would have been cleared for farming during the 18th century, presumably it would have been quite rural, making it a superb hideout. There are a few trailheads to reach the Tory Den which is located on the Tunxis Trail. One is off of Greer Road in Burlington; the other is off of East Plymouth Road in Terryville. The latter is where I parked and is described below.
If you go
Arriving from the south, there is a small lot on the right-hand side of East Plymouth Road, just past the reservoir. Given the beautiful weather, the lot was full, but it is legal to park the car on the side of the road here. There is no signage except for a sign that reads not to stray off path since this section belongs to the waterworks. Take a right to find the trail from the small lot and head left (east) to begin the walk. The trail looks off-limits since there is a gate blocking the path from the road.
The walk
The terrain is rugged and muddy, but well worn. There is no bush-whacking here. The path slants upward steadily, but not dauntingly so. The Tory Den is located about a mile from the entrance. It’s a pretty walk and even on this beautiful May day, we only saw about five other hikers. Even though there is no kiosk or trail map, there are signs, and the blue-blazed trail was easy to traverse. Eventually, you’ll come to a fork, with Mile of Ledges to the right and the Tory Den to the left. We chose the path towards the den. This is actually a loop, so both can be seen during the same walk.
The Tory Den
Soon you will encounter the den. It’s an impressive rock formation that has many nooks and crannies. Charred remains of a fire pit were the only sign of life. We spent a while ducking in and out of the squeezes and climbing on top of it. The view was obscured by full foliage but must be breathtaking in autumn. Stories of the Tories included 20 or 30 hiding out here at one time. The pursuing patriots never discovered the Tory Den. A signal would be sent for the group to go into hiding, at which point Stephen Graves’s wife would blow on her conch shell, calling to the group to come back home. There’s actually a whole book written about the Tories of Chippeny, by E. LeRoy Pond.
The Old Leatherman
About 100 years later, the den was again inhabited, this time by Connecticut’s most well-known vagabond, The Old Leatherman. The Leatherman is best known for traversing the same loop of 365 miles every 34 or so days, using the same caves as shelters along the way in the 1880s. Prior to his circuit, he still called Connecticut home, although he’s most famous for his route. There are also full books about the Leatherman that have been written, and others that he is included in. The Old Leatherman wandered the state, clad in leather from head to toe in the mid to late 1800s, receiving food from the same houses along his route. He didn’t speak and his identity is unknown.
Mile of Ledges
Due to the fact that we had more than one destination on this day trip, we opted not to traverse the whole almost five mile loop. Instead, we left the Tory Den the way we came, but at the fork, followed it to the Mile of Ledges. In preparing for the trip, this section I knew would be the most difficult. The blazed trail climbs over rock formations including scrambling up craggy inclines. We witnessed the first few rocky climbs. The scenery is gorgeous, with boulders strewn seemingly everywhere. The only other site like it in Connecticut that I have seen is Glacial Park in Ledyard, although climbing on the ledges can’t be avoided on this trail as it can at Glacial Park.
Depending on what you are in the mood for, the time you have, and how expert a hiker you are will dictate your visit to the Tory Den and vicinity. Whatever your destination may be, whether it’s the Den, the Mile of Ledges, or something else, follow the signs and the blazes. This region is crisscrossed by numerous trails which could lead to confusion. One note: even my journey to the Tory Den, which is relatively easier compared to the Mile of Ledges or Greer Road lot, still was a steady climb. Know your limits before making the trek.
The map below shows East Plymouth Road where the parking lot is located. Continue north on this road and you’ll see the parking lot, just passed the Old Marsh Pond.
