Knowing the gist of this blog, a friend of mine from work visited me in my classroom after school one-day last spring. He said, “I’ve got the perfect place for you to visit for the blog!” “Where?” I thought. He proclaimed, “Easton!” “Easton, as in Easton, Massachusetts?. Yes, I had been to the children’s museum, their Christmas light display, and knew that Easton has a number of buildings designed by Henry Hobson Richardson, but still was curious. What else was there? It turns out after his description, and later the tour that he gave me, he was absolutely right, Easton is ripe for exploration. A bit off the beaten path, the perfect way to describe this backyard road trip is Surprising Easton.
We began our trip at Shovel Town Brewery for a flight of beer and a lobster roll and continued to explore the town, making stops at the Governor Ames Estate, Queset House and Gardens, the town library, a cemetery, the former Ames shovel factory, and the train station. The design of this trip is to be walkable. Although originally my trip started at the brewery, I’ll be writing about it last with the historical and architecturally significant spots coming first.
For this post, a big thank you to my friend Jeff Burton and his wife, Missy, for carting me all around the wonderful places in surprising Easton.
Surprising Easton
Grab an Ames brand shovel, because we are about to dig into Easton!
As a lover of architecture and an American Studies major, I’ve always considered Henry Hobson Richardson the Hulk Hogan of American architects. The man, the myth, the legend: look at his work–the curves, the stonework, the roofs. Breathtaking! Years ago I found out that Richardson designed five buildings in the relatively small village of North Easton. Combine that with the work of premier landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted also in town, and North Easton is architectural heaven.
All about the Ames
It is surprising that Easton did not change its name to Ames. (No not named for this much-missed store.) This was the Ames family of the shovels, the shovel entrepreneurs. There’s even a shovel museum at Stonehill College in Easton. The college’s land was once the Frederick Lothrop Ames Jr estate and the original Stonehill building was his mansion. The Ames family basically ran this town and were responsible for the handiwork of Richardson and Olmsted being imprinted on Easton for posterity.
Among the famous Ameses was Oliver, and his brother, the controversial Oakes Ames. Both men loomed large in completion of the Transcontinental Railroad. Their father, Oliver Senior, began the Ames shovel businesses, the largest employer in town, with his sons later added as partners. Governor of Massachusetts, another Oliver Ames, was Oakes’s son. Credit is given to him for hiring and paying for the Richardson designed buildings in town. To make things confusing, the name Oliver, was popular to use in the Ames family, kind of like “George” to the Foremans.
Governor Oliver Ames Estate
The first stop on the tour of Easton is the Governor Oliver Ames Estate, a parcel of land now in the possession of the Trustees. The grounds are perfect for strolling, running, picnicking, and even taking the ever-popular prom photo. A backdrop of wildflowers greets the visitors as does Shovelshop Pond and massive shade producing trees. The preserve abuts the Langwater Estate, an extraordinary mansion built for Ames. From the reservation, the bridge to the home can be seen. From Elm Street though, the also incredibly impressive Richardson designed gatehouse can be seen. This gatehouse is much more grandiose than most houses.
North Easton Station
Crossing Mechanic Street your eyes will immediately be drawn to the next of Richardson’s works, the former train station (there are plans that it will be active once again). This houses the Easton Historical Society. Here are many artifacts related to the town. The train station is a perfect example of Richardson’s characteristic style, with wide arches, use of brownstone, and its classic Richardson oversized and overhanging roof. Another Ames, Frederick Lothrop Ames, was the head of the Old Colony Railroad and spearheaded this building’s construction.
Ames Shovel Works
Across from the train station, the former shovel factory itself is now impressive residences. The complex of different buildings is now a community of apartments. Shovels made here were even used by the Union Army in the Civil War and continued in military usage through the Korean War. The stone structures have been painstakingly restored. There are signs scattered throughout the property detailing the history of each building. The grounds are well maintained and manicured and feature residential perks such as fire pits.
Oakes Ames Memorial Hall
South on Main Street a tad is Oakes Ames Memorial Hall, another striking piece of architecture, again designed by Richardson. Originally slated for use as a town hall, it has been a function space with a variety of uses. The trademark brownstone and features of his design are present in this building.
Ames Free Library
Another Richardsonian masterpiece is right next door, the Ames Free Library. This was the first of the buildings that I was able to see inside; it’s as impressive on the inside as it is on the outside. This library was renovated recently and has been able to fuse the new and modern with the old without missing a beat. Look for the portrait of Richardson inside.
Queset House’s Gardens
The library has another property, the Queset House in its possession. Jeff’s story of this property was especially cool. Directly behind the library is an elaborate meandering garden. Designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, this garden in the Italianate style is truly a sight to see. Jeff recalled not that long ago, the garden was virtually unknown. It was buried beneath the rubble of twisted vines and overgrowth. When he first lived in town, Jeff didn’t know this existed.
As of 2011, the first stage of the garden’s rehabilitation was completed. The once overgrown mess was once again seen for its true beauty. This was the garden of Winthrop Ames, noted for his work on Broadway, who owned the Queset House. Stroll among the garden’s many layers and pause by its pool.
Queset House
The Queset House is now an extension of the library and a function hall. Seemingly the only building of note that’s not a Richardson in town (not actually true), this home’s architect is Andrew Jackson Downing for Oakes Angier Ames. This structure is equally as impressive as the rest. Made of stone, it is almost as if it were a macro-sized gingerbread cottage with unique features. The interior of the building is dark with some of the bottom floor rooms full of period pieces. Grab a book from the shelves and read by the fire in the front room.
Unity Church and adjacent cemetery
Keep walking north from the Queset House and the library on Main Street, and you’ll arrive at the striking stone Unity Church, dating from 1875. Behind this church is an important cemetery. Here you’ll find the resting places of many of the Ames family. Not to be outdone in death as they were in life, many of the stones loom large. Among them are Oakes Ames’s towering obelisk and the forlorn woman who is eternally watching over Governor Oliver Ames.
Shovel Town Brewery
It wouldn’t be appropriate to visit Easton’s Shovel Town Brewery without understanding exactly why the name is apropos. After absorbing the history of the village, it’s time for a beer!
Surprise, surprise, the brewery is located in an old factory. Walk across Elm Street from Union Church and you’ll hit the building that houses Shovel Town (50 Oliver Street). The taproom’s decor includes lots of local photographs adorning the walls. It has an industrial feel, with exposed brick, high ceilings, and ductwork.
Going to a brewery for the first time, I always opt for a flight. This way I can sample as many styles as possible without the inability to drive home. I chose their Simpson’s Summer Ale, named so for the natural spring water also found in Easton and which this beer is brewed with. You can tell, this beer is smooth! It reminded me of some of the really good craft beers I had in Iceland, brewed with glacial water. It really stood out. The Flyaway IPA was really solid and Jeff told me was named after a pond in town. (I love when there are local tie-ins to names!)
I typically stay away from the bourbon barrel so and so, especially in the summer, especially when the ABV is outrageous. Here was a Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Vanilla Cream Ale at only 5%. It was smooth drinking with a hint of bourbon and vanilla, very nice! The last I had was the stout which I also really enjoyed. Top the flight off with a lobster roll, and it was a perfect accompaniment to a fun day of learning the history of the Ames family and in turn, learning about the history of Easton.
Pack your bags and head to surprising Easton
As a history and architecture nerd, who really likes fitting pieces together, learning about the multi-generational Ames family, and walking around their factory, homes and municipal buildings was a joy for me. Jeff was right, surprising Easton makes a perfect backyard road trip!
Many thanks to Jeff and Missy Burton for showing me the wonders of Easton, I’ll most certainly be back! They showed me what’s in their backyard, now what’s in yours?
Want some more fun in Massachusetts? Click here, here and here.
Great article. One correction, however, it is Unity Church not Union church.
Thank you! I’ll make that change now